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Apart from the other comments on the video, it’s hardly a typical representation. The car has a fixed pivot point at the front, which is nothing like a typical vehicle combo. It’s exacerbated by the ‘sway’ induced by the impractical trailer all the way through that single point.
It’s a video designed to sell stability devices to people who may not need them.
It also doesn’t take into account the trailer stability programs available today.
Lol we had the guy from Hardings Caravans who originally posted the video, here at our 4wd meeting as we speak. Nothing was mentioned about selling sway control but purely to show how ball weight or lack of it can affect the sway. He actually said that load is more important than the sway control and that the esp systems won’t fix sway problems. So I don’t know where you heard that from, but it was probably uncle bobs mate from the 3rd marriage who is the Eddie the expert in nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jars
They usually do 2 or so major insurance repairs a year due to sway and the 1st thing they do when they get them in is to weigh the ball weight and in most situations it’s the low ball weight that has caused the accident.
Yes the video is not “a perfect representation “ but it’s an easy way to show how important load distribution is.
Dave.
Thanks for the interesting video.
Can I ask what might be a typical low ball weight that might cause sway?
Typically the ball weight is approx less than 10% of the ATM (or your loaded weight). That’s not to say 9% will cause sway. It’s not an exact science to this and that’s why there are so many arguments regarding this lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Sway “normally” happens at 100kmh or more. European caravans are fairly light weight and ball weights are approx 5%, this is why they are limited to 100kmh and lots of European cars have light ball weight limits.
Not many other countries tow 3T vans either,,,
and certainly not on 285 x 85 x 16's:o
I have a 3.0Ltr D4 (230,000Klms) towing an SLR off-road c/van (3.5T all-up) for about 60,000Klms, probably 45,000Klms bitumen, the rest on dirt through Great Central Rd, Cameron’s corner, Strezleki, Flinders ranges Cape York etc. I have fitted a Mitch Hitch to ensure the van is level when travelling. I have found tyre pressures on the D4 and c/van are important.
I have used Coopers LTZ and now use Duratracs and run 50 PSI rear and 45 Front when towing on tarmac and decrease to 35 PSI rear and 30 on the front and C/van when on dirt/corrugated roads. Using this combination I have not noticed any sway and have not had a tyre failure from either manufacturer (I do have a TPMS system for the D4 & C/van)
As my van has LED lights I have fitted a resistor (which can be switched in and out when towing) in the indicator circuit so the D4 registers that a C/van is being towed.
I have 3 water tanks and use them from front to rear to balance the towball weight and find no difference in the vehicle response/activity as the water is used.
I have found the D4 to be a great tow vehicle and suggest that looking at your original photo I think using a Mitch Hitch will be good start to levelling your C/van and get you going in the right direction to stop swaying with the van.
MickM
coChris;2779477]Attachment 136784Hello Guys,
I am new to this forum and I hope I am posting this query in the right forum.
I bought my LR D4 in 2012. I have had a lot of fun with it 4wd in the Victorian High Country, taking it across the Simpson Desert (twice) without issues.
I have recently ventured into caravanning having purchased our 2014 Evernew E900 in November last year. I am looking for feedback on towing.
In my first trip out to Barwon Heads, I experienced unnerving sway when I exceeded about 80/85kph. In my second trip out (to Moonambel), I rebalanced my load putting more weight on the Draw Bar and experienced significant improvement. However on the return trip with empty water tanks and very windy conditions I again experienced significant sway. My friends towing a similar caravan behind a popular Japanese 4WD with anti sway / load levellers,felt no sway.
I am told that Anti Sway/Levelling devices are counter intuitive to the D4 Air Suspension and therefore are not recommended.
I do believe that the nose of the draw bar might be about 40mm too low and so that will be my next adjustment but while I expect some improvement, I am not expecting it to be significant.
Does anyone have any suggestions for minimising sway when towing ~3000kg? Your advice much appreciated.[/QUOTE]
I have had many years experience towing with Disco including Cape York Telegraph road with Kimberley Kamper trailer and Later touring with Kimberley Karavan using Disco 2 Currently have 2016 Disco 4 with 3.2 t Legend off-road caravan At all times the weight distribution is paramount Always put generator in vehicle and check ball weight with scales. Remove anti sway bars as they are counter productive. Haymen Reece recommendation includes removal “when going onto dirt road” which defeats the purpose of off road driving.Always drive with water tanks full as they help with the manufacturers design.Have had no sway issues with current set up and the self leveling disco always make towing easy and Disco 4 so much better as tow vehicle than Disco 2....have fun but make certain you pack your van carefully
This video is not used for selling anything but is used to freely educate newcomers to towing as to the intracacies or consequences of loading yout trailer incorrectly. The principles are the same wherever you place the wheels and how many axles. Just take your caravan out and try it for yourself....if you dare![bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jars
[/QUOTE]Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake Tyers Beach Fossil
Not wanting to sound critical here but one thing to learn is that given certain conditions, caravans will sway. These are not limited to causes such as poor loading, lightweight on towbar, speed, windy conditions, erratic driving (Sudden direction changes for example), road surface conditions, Caravan to Car weight ratio. Simply put I guess I just wanted to point out that the caravan will always be felt behind you. Outback or offroad caravans are the worst and despite everyone coming back saying that theirs is OK I mean relative to road going vans. Their suspension is designed to allow more movement than std Leafsprings and therefore will roll more in corners and take longer to "settle".
If you have sway when towing with a D4 there is a reason for it which you should be able to identify reading through this thread as the D4 is widely accepted as one of the best tug you can own.
