Thread: Gearbox / Motor Vibration SDV6

Brad72 did they use LG6 or something else ?

After approaching a mechanic for a transmission pan upgrade for the D3 (140,000kms) I was told "Ok, but be aware you might start getting torque converter shudder as a result of changing the fluid". His reasoning was that the crap in the old fluid could be masking an underlying issue. I went and got the job done because i figured a stuffed transmission was a worse long term outcome. So far no problems (fingers crossed) but is what he is saying very likely?

Originally Posted by Markus1

After approaching a mechanic for a transmission pan upgrade for the D3 (140,000kms) I was told "Ok, but be aware you might start getting torque converter shudder as a result of changing the fluid". His reasoning was that the crap in the old fluid could be masking an underlying issue. I went and got the job done because i figured a stuffed transmission was a worse long term outcome. So far no problems (fingers crossed) but is what he is saying very likely?

Not really,most find the opposite,particularly when using LG6.

Originally Posted by CanadianRyan

Is this the easiest way to get fluid into the transmission?

Yep it certainly is. Takes about 10 minutes

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Brad72 did they use LG6 or something else ?

Yep, used the ZF lifeguard fluid. Said what can out during the service was is there was nice and clean with no metal flecks etc present. Not bad given the box had done 160,000km. I can only assume the new oil was bit too slippery for it.

I reported the vibration that I and two techs could feel through the steering wheel (like a mobile phone vibrating) within a 100 rpm range at around 1800 and then again at 3600. No matter what gear, what speed and even what load to some extent.

Trial by elimination was the first option, starting at the vacuum engine mounts being replaced. Fair enough.
This meant the exhaust had to be dropped and in doing a stud broke in the primary turbo. Fair enough.
Upon drilling it out, the drill bit snapped. OK count to ten.
Foolishly trying to drill out the embedded drill bit; with a drill bit, damage was done to the turbo beyond repair, which meant a body off job to replace the turbo. This was done twice for second replacement due to a leak in the first. I did ask them to do a smoke test before putting the body back on...but? Smoke test done the second time round.

Based on previous posts, I am now going to get the torque converter investigated, as long as its not another body off job at the dealer.

Would the torque converter be the reason for the constant target rpm range with regard to different combinations of gear, speed and maybe load?

After 182,000 kms, lots of towing campers and boats, I will be rebuilding the ZF valve block in my ZF6HP28 X transmission. This includes: brand new solenoids, new valve kit (all O-rings, accumulators and springs, seals etc.), new separator plate, mechatronic pump seals, plus new sump filter and metal pan gasket.

Metal pan upgrade and flush was done at 120,000km.

The symptoms I've currently got is harshness in down shifts 3-2 and 2-1 (no clunk....yet), delayed up shifts (especially 5th to 6th) and sometimes hesitation or throttle flaring when shifting between all gears.

No shudder at all, and the TC still locks up nicely, its just the shifts that are cause for concern.

Putting it in Sport mode makes it feel only slightly better, but this is only because the line pressure in the valve body is increased to allow faster shifts and holding gears longer, but it effectively masks the real issue. Manually shifting up or down in Sport mode still gives the same harsh feel.

I found out that this is caused by the accumulator valves being worn, and most probably the solenoid nozzles being partially blocked. This results in pressure loss in the valve body, and more than likely the pump bridge seal is probably split, and the 4 pump seals are also probably pushed all the way into the valve body, when they should be sitting about 5mm proud.

Before I start burning out clutch packs and damaging the torque converter, i figured now is a good a time as any. A new transmission is approximately A$7k supply only...

Penrite has their new BMV ATF available that is a suitable replacement for the ZF Lifeguard 6. It is also more that 50% less cost than LF6 (20L of BMV costs A$220 delivered to my house, from SuperCheap Auto)

I spoke to the Penrite tech support people and this gave me a lot of confidence in making my selection. I hope that this will possibly lower the cost of LF6, but wont hold my breath though...

Using all genuine ZF parts (i.e. Sonnax solenoids and ZIP kit), with the exception of the filter (OEM) and pan gasket (thicker Duoprene aftermarket one that seals the pan better), and the Penrite BMV ATF cost me A$1200 so far.

As I'm intending to keep the vehicle for the foreseeable future, and we a planning a Great Central Road trip next June, I think this is cheap insurance.

I would also strongly recommend to do this at the same time as the plastic-to-steel pan and separate filter conversion.

Note that this exact same transmission (ZF 6HP series) is used in late model BMW's, Jags, Fords and there is loads of info available on their respective forums about trouble shooting etc.

You will need to check using your VIN if you have the 6HP26 (gen 1) or 6HP28 (gen 2), depending on the build date of your car. I believe most D3's have the Gen 1,

I will let you all know how it goes, rebuild is planned for the next couple of weeks (currently waiting for parts from O/S)

Note - I will also be changing the transfer case oil, front and rear diffs I did 4 weeks ago and no issues (oil from the rear was still clear, the front also clear but a bit darker after after 180,000km!)

Cheers

Originally Posted by Mungus

Would the torque converter be the reason for the constant target rpm range with regard to different combinations of gear, speed and maybe load?

I can only go from my experience but the shudder for me was always around that 1600-1800rpm range, no matter what gear. I drive on mostly flat hot melt freeways almost exclusively so very little throttle input so the shudder was more pronounced. A little stab of the accelerator and the shudder was gone till the next occurrence. The shudder would happen on the same stretches of road without fail so ruled out anything else with the car. $10 tube of shudder stop and it's 95% fixed. I won't put a second tube in but will see how it behaves when the next gearbox oil change is done in 40,000km