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Thread: Gearbox / Motor Vibration SDV6

  1. #41
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    Fantastic info thanks Eric. I'll get a liter if LF6 from my local repco and check the trans fluid level. I would hope the transmission guys who service it would have done things correctly but I guess you never know till you check.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Right, so I’ve completed the ZF6HP28 valve body rebuild.

    definitely worth the trouble.

    cheers,

    Eric
    by the way, fuel economy on highway cycle is now back to a respectable 9.0L/100km for the past week, I was sitting around 11.0-12.0 before. Looking forward to see how we go towing the camper

  3. #43
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    Here are some photos of my valve body and transmission when pulling it out and cleaning it down.

    Sorry, no photos of inside the valve body, too much ATF and had to concentrate what went where.

    I for one was amazed how clean the inside of the transmission was. Mine has done 183,000 km and only had one fluid change at 120,000km.IMG_9870.jpgIMG_9882.jpgIMG_9880.jpgIMG_9874.jpgIMG_9875.jpgIMG_9876.jpg

    From L to R: valve body in the car / valve body out - new pump seals / transmission wide / valve body out with mechatronic attached / cleaned steel pan / rebuilt valve body with new solenoids, ZIP kit installed and new separator plate

    Cheers,

    Eric

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Here are some photos of my valve body and transmission when pulling it out and cleaning it down.

    Sorry, no photos of inside the valve body, too much ATF and had to concentrate what went where.

    I for one was amazed how clean the inside of the transmission was. Mine has done 183,000 km and only had one fluid change at 120,000km.IMG_9870.jpgIMG_9882.jpgIMG_9880.jpgIMG_9874.jpgIMG_9875.jpgIMG_9876.jpg

    From L to R: valve body in the car / valve body out - new pump seals / transmission wide / valve body out with mechatronic attached / cleaned steel pan / rebuilt valve body with new solenoids, ZIP kit installed and new separator plate

    Cheers,

    Eric
    Hi Eric,
    If you don't mind I'll drop you a PM about your shopping list. I had a look at the site of parts and spotted many required, I didn't really understand what the "zip kit" was providing, or where to get new solenoids (I believe you said you replaced them too?). Mine's pretty much like yours so I figure the identical treatment will see it through to the end of its life.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Here are some photos of my valve body and transmission when pulling it out and cleaning it down.

    Eric
    Hi Eric

    Meant to ask what condition were the seals like between the gearbox and mechatronic unit?

    I cannot unfortunately afford to do a rebuild at this time but might rebuild the mechatronic unit and replace the seals in teh coming months. I drive almost exclusively in sports mode now or the shuddering can be crap(worst gear is 3rd), but if for example i get shuddering in 5th, dropping back to 4th then back to 5th improves it greatly. Makes me think there might be a leak in the mechatronic sealing plate, seals, or a non performing solenoid

    102km/h and above is fine. Bit hard to do that in 60 zones though

  6. #46
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    Hi Brad,

    Im assuming you mean the seals between the valve body and transmission. These were physically fine, the issue is they get pushed up into the transmission, causing fluid bypass between the two, and pressure loss in the valve body and so transmission shudder (torque converter doesn't fill correctly. When replacing them, they stick out about 5mm from the trans housing, so when the valve body bolts up, they compress and form a proper seal. Over time they lose shape and allow the above leakage.

    Note I did not rebuild the mechatronic unit, just the valve body. The difference has been great, smooth shifts, no shudder (not that i had much to start with), and the knowledge that everything in the valve body is working as it should.

  7. #47
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    How do you check the oil level of the transmission?

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    How do you check the oil level of the transmission?
    Engine running, transmission at 34 degrees C, fill until there is a slow trickle from the side fill port. You need an IID or similar to get transmission fluid temps live. There’s guides online if you don’t want my abridged version.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    How do you check the oil level of the transmission?
    As per Erics advice and also make sure the car is perfectly level

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Hi Brad,

    Im assuming you mean the seals between the valve body and transmission. These were physically fine, the issue is they get pushed up into the transmission, causing fluid bypass between the two, and pressure loss in the valve body and so transmission shudder (torque converter doesn't fill correctly. When replacing them, they stick out about 5mm from the trans housing, so when the valve body bolts up, they compress and form a proper seal. Over time they lose shape and allow the above leakage.

    Note I did not rebuild the mechatronic unit, just the valve body. The difference has been great, smooth shifts, no shudder (not that i had much to start with), and the knowledge that everything in the valve body is working as it should.

    Thanks Eric.


    i assume I would need to reset the shift adaptions also. Might need to add the OBII to the shopping list. Wish the ones that can reset adaptions weren't so expensive

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