???Quote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
Battery load testing is often free at many places, it's 30 second job. Was it a simple load test that was done or did you have something else done?
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???Quote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
Battery load testing is often free at many places, it's 30 second job. Was it a simple load test that was done or did you have something else done?
Nup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferret???Quote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
Battery load testing is often free at many places, it's 30 second job. Was it a simple load test that was done or did you have something else done?
It wasn't a battery test as such. I thought I may have had a battery leak. The guy apparently spent quite a bit of time going through every thing but found nothing. Sort of pointed at the battery.
My big concern is they put in a Calcium batter (EXIDE DIN88MF) and no BMS reset was done.
Been doing some reading and have go the impression that my car (a 2014 TDV6 Diesel) MUST have an AGM battery as the alternator and charging system is set up for this.
Whether doing a BMS reset would change this I don't know as don't know what this achieves.
In my reading it did appear the D3 could go CALCIUM but the D4 from mine on AGM was required.
Does any one have any idea if this is true and can you point me to some documentation stating this so I can take it back to the mechanic.
I did ask for AGM but he was insistent that it was not required although he did say it was AGM (different type spiral or something). But this is wrong.
Richard
Apart for the above concerns that I have had the wrong type of battery installed I believe the following (does not mean to is true)
The BMS is probably set up for AGM. Installing a CALCIUM battery with out a reset will probably not cause problems but is not ideal.
However going CALCIUM to AGM may cause a problem and require a BMS reset.
This is because the CALCIUM takes a higher charger, higher than good for the AGM battery.
Previously I used to charge my main battery (AGM) with the charger set for AGM, alls well as my AUX is an OPTIMUM AGM.
Now that I have a mixed set up I asked Tim (drivesafe) and he said to still charge a AGM as charging for CALCIUM may cause issues with the OPTIMUM AUX battery.
I have extrapolated this to my original statement.
I am a bit annoyed as I did ask for an AGM but allowed my self to be talked out of it.
Hence if I can find some written proof that I must have an AGM in my car I will go back and confront them about it.
Richard
Richard
You’re uncomfortable with the calcium battery that’s been installed.
its not what you requested.
Go back and get him to swap it over.
RonQuote:
Originally Posted by RHS58
That is if they will
I am happy as long as it works ok
From my reading it seems that AGM is what people and LR are using. My cars BMS is probably set up for AGM and I am fairly sure they did not change this.
And if they did is there an impact on my AUX battery as in questions above as it is AGM.
The easiest solution would be if they used AGM.
i will contact them again today.
Richard
I think (say if this is wrong) one of the differences in battery settings is that optimum charging rates vary between types of batteries.
Calcium are a type of lead acid battery, but they require a higher charging voltage (14.4-14.8) than some other batteries. They are also more easily damaged by high temperatures.
So the alternator would have to be able to charge at the right rate to fully charge a calcium battery.
My Defender's alternator just sits on 14 volts, which might be a bit low for a calcium but is fine for a lead acid starting battery, but those with smart alternators might be able to charge at a higher rate until the battery charged and then drop down.
Is that right?
After hunting around a bit I did go back to them.Quote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
They said it was AGM but it ain’t
Going to swap it for me but I am sure it will cost extra for battery. I hope labor is not added on as I was told it was AGM.
No conspiracy just a misunderstanding as the guys I go to a pretty good.
Richard
Isn't calcium a type of AGM? AGM just means the lead acid electrolyte is held in the glass mats rather than flooding the plates. Calcium is added to reduce water loss for faster charging than a standard AGM.
VRLA battery - Wikipedia
I have always used Bog standard lead acid batteries as cranking batteries and with a bit of care and maintenance they can last well over the 24 month warranty, 7 years of service is not unusual.
Is there really any advantage in spending the extra quids on the AGM/Calcium cranking batteries?
As said earlier, within the GAP tool's routines, there are 2 settings related to the battery which can be changedQuote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
1) Within the "service / test" menu there is a "Battery Replacement" procedure with should be done when the battery is replaced. This is the so called BMS reset you have referred to. What happens if you don't do it? Probably very little is my guess - the BMS I imagine would just adapt to the new battery characteristics (state of charge, whatever) more slowly rather than very quickly via a reset.
2) Within the "car configuration file" menu there is the ability to specify the "Battery Type". A list of potential battery capacity, and CCA ratings is available to be selected based on what is actually installed (ie 90 Ah, 950 CCA or 90Ah, 800CCA etc). Nowhere does it allow you to select a specific type of battery construction - eg Calcium, AGM or whatever etc.
If it does not / can not distinguish between a Calcium or an AGM battery in any of its configuration settings then I doubt it matters that much to the charge management system.
The preference for AGM batteries in these vehicles is more related to driving patterns. People who use them daily for short trips benefit from AGM batteries because they recharge faster. People who use them daily for longer trips where battery charge time is less important probably don't benefit as much from an AGM battery. That's my understanding of it.