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Thread: Rear Door Lock/actuator

  1. #1
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    Rear Door Lock/actuator

    One of my rear doors (passenger) has stopped locking/unlocking with the central locking. It started (stopped?!) a few months ago, but I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.
    Just after I first bought my D4, I had a similar experience with the drivers side rear door lock. It was eventually replaced under warranty, but I'm not sure what they actually did (I'm assuming they replaced the actuator).

    Has anyone had any experience with this?
    How hard is it to get the door skin off/on to investigate and / or replace the actuator?
    I've got a workshop manual, so I'm assuming (again) that there's some instruction on removing/replacing the door/actuator...

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated (before I start pulling the door apart )!

    Thanks

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  2. #2
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    Do you mean the door card on the inside of the door? Not that hard, I replaced the drivers door one in under 30 minutes (bear in mind for a software guy this would be a hardware problem).

    Ron
    2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
    --------------------------------------------------------
    2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
    2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
    IIDTool BT

  3. #3
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    You can either replace the lock actuator or rebuild it. There are little motors inside that the brushes wear down on them. A clean out can help or replacement. I’ve replaced them in mine successfully for about $2 and my time
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #4
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    Actuator rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    You can either replace the lock actuator or rebuild it. There are little motors inside that the brushes wear down on them. A clean out can help or replacement. I’ve replaced them in mine successfully for about $2 and my time
    Thanks for that. Do you have any info on how you rebuilt them, parts used etc?
    Would they be items available at a Jaycar etc, or is it an eBay item??

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  5. #5
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    I would be interested also, one of my rear door locks doesn't lock with the key fob

    Cheers
    Lucas
    2011 2.7D4

  6. #6
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    You want to order a 20mm long shaft car door lock actuator for Mabuchi Motor repair / Lexus Toyota. eBay etc.
    The shaft should actually be about 25mm but the shorter shaft isn’t an issue.
    You will need to use heat to get the old gear off (or brute force) and best to use heat to put it back on, or if like mine it’s a slightly loose fit, use some loctite to keep the gear in place.
    Mines been fine for 6 months so far.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  7. #7
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    Oh, and there are various YouTube vids for how to remove the lock, then the fun job of disassembling, replacing, reassembling and installation.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks View Post
    One of my rear doors (passenger) has stopped locking/unlocking with the central locking. It started (stopped?!) a few months ago, but I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.
    Just after I first bought my D4, I had a similar experience with the drivers side rear door lock. It was eventually replaced under warranty, but I'm not sure what they actually did (I'm assuming they replaced the actuator).

    Has anyone had any experience with this?
    How hard is it to get the door skin off/on to investigate and / or replace the actuator?
    I've got a workshop manual, so I'm assuming (again) that there's some instruction on removing/replacing the door/actuator...

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated (before I start pulling the door apart )!

    Thanks

    Rob
    Check the fuse and even if it’s ok clean or replace. I had a rear door actuator fail and was ready to replace the actuator when my mechanic checked the fuse again and voila all fixed.

  9. #9
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    I cleaned the brushes on my front passenger side actuator motor 3 years ago and it is still working fine, touch wood! I found a video via the disco3 forum that ran through the procedure.

    At the same time I ordered a new actuator from aliexpress, it was the cheapest I could find, it looks identical to the original but sits in the shed waiting to be needed.

    I found the the most fiddly part was getting the cables off the actuator whilst still in the door, a sort of forked tool would help a lot and a very clear picture of what you are up against would help too.

    I have neither to offer though.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Perth, WA
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    Door actuator

    Thanks for the replies DiscoJeffster, irondoc, Crabbie...

    I'll see what I can find (look at the fuses first), and let you know how I go.

    Probably won't happen this weekend (wood to chop for winter first!)... (that's for winter, not the wood-chopping!!!)...

    Thanks.

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

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