ZF 6HP26 Sump Removal Question(s)

Printable View

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

1st July 2018, 05:51 PM
DazzaTD5

Quote:

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

This looks to be a new and good solution for 6 and 8 speed gearbox servicing.

These Britpart videos are very good;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xY9P3CUGQ08

Not for the ZF 8 speed auto. The service kit for the 8 speed auto has the integrated filter with the plastic pan.
*I have also noted the 6 speed auto in the Discovery 4, I'm sure sits slightly lower than the same auto in the Discovery 3. On a Discovery 4 the auto pan is that little bit harder to remove and to fit the steel pan.
1st July 2018, 05:52 PM
justinc

Quote:

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Just some more info....

*Did a auto service on a TDV8 yesterday @ 190K, it was one of the worst I have driven for shudder and crap change.
*Service done, smooth as you like.
*Doing as Justin C suggested with regards to remove rear long bolt at back of auto and raise up is great for a RRS model with the active stabiliser bars on it as the hydraulic unit covers front access to front pan bolts.
*I'd say lifting the box up is so quick, I'm likely going to do it on all auto services from now on, even with my little fairy fingers (you know after doing 50 million of them without lifting it, duh).
*They say JC isnt pretty but at least he has some useful ideas [tonguewink][tonguewink]

My wife thinks im pretty cute but....

I actually have another expert tip Dazza...

Lever the trans up from the back by lifting the rear mounting alloy bush housing up and slip an appropriate size socket in there to hold it, i use a 1'1/16 impact socket.
1st July 2018, 05:55 PM
justinc

Quote:

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Not for the ZF 8 speed auto. The service kit for the 8 speed auto has the integrated filter with the plastic pan.
*I have also noted the 6 speed auto in the Discovery 4, I'm sure sits slightly lower than the same auto in the Discovery 3. On a Discovery 4 the auto pan is that little bit harder to remove and to fit the steel pan.

And don't forget that v6 petrol owners will need to remove the rear crossmember and the rear mounting, and grind a bit of the steel pan lip away to clear the mount alloy casing.
3rd July 2018, 07:54 PM
DazzaTD5

Justin.....
I see your sig.... 840Nm ????? ..... you do realise that is some form of insanity don't you? How about a tractor pull against the Perentie?? [tonguewink][tonguewink]

P.S The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box <==== that is just so wrong, an auto????? you are off my xmas list!!
4th July 2018, 08:58 PM
justinc

Quote:

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Justin.....
I see your sig.... 840Nm ????? ..... you do realise that is some form of insanity don't you? How about a tractor pull against the Perentie?? [tonguewink][tonguewink]

P.S The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box <==== that is just so wrong, an auto????? you are off my xmas list!!

Not yet.. actually pretty impressive standard at 700Nm... recently saw 9l/100 (7.9 on the dash!😮) on a highway run so yeah might not bother with the reflash...yet😈. And dodgy shoulder has made an LT95 an impossibility so auto it is so i can still enjoy driving it 😍
5th July 2018, 01:51 PM
vbrab

refitting pan to 6HP26 Change bolts

I have found that if I get rid of the "torx' type bolts that hold the pan on and replace with hex head bolts that it is easier to get a small 1/4 drive socket in across the front edge of the pan where there is little room (even with rear box support bolt removed and raising box).
I also coat the mounting face of the pan and the gasket on both sides with Hylomar, and that seems to sort out any leaks.
5th July 2018, 10:19 PM
DazzaTD5

Quote:

Originally Posted by vbrab

I have found that if I get rid of the "torx' type bolts that hold the pan on and replace with hex head bolts that it is easier to get a small 1/4 drive socket in across the front edge of the pan where there is little room (even with rear box support bolt removed and raising box).
I also coat the mounting face of the pan and the gasket on both sides with Hylomar, and that seems to sort out any leaks.

The service kit I have recommended has normal hex bolts instead of the torx and the seal is an allum one with a rubber seal making it very easy to install.
15th July 2018, 07:01 AM
vbrab

Re chnage from torx to hex head

Quote:

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

The service kit I have recommended has normal hex bolts instead of the torx and the seal is an allum one with a rubber seal making it very easy to install.

If they are putting hex head bolts with the kits, seems like somebody finaly got smart.............at last.
Took me 3 trans oil chnages before I figured out it would be easier with hex heads.
16th June 2019, 10:25 AM
Grappler

My 2007 RRS is coming up for its next auto gearbox service having done 240K kms,
Previously Ive replaced the filter and flushed with LG6.
I will be changing out the mechatronics plug sleeve as its weeping. Ive seen on some other sites a recommendation to routinely replace the box shaped seal adaptor and the 4 sealing sleeves, with the comment "they always leak"
This requires dropping the mechatronics unit. What is your experience with this? Is it problematic and is it possible to get the assembly past the X member. My auto trans has always run faultlessly, and although Ive got the extra parts Im wondering, if it aint.....,dont fix it?[bighmmm]
18th June 2019, 08:51 AM
twr7cx

I used the torque wrench for most and the ones that I couldn't access with it I did last and just used approximate based on the number I had just done...

For removing the pan it was easy to just snap the spout/neck in place once all the bolts were dropped and for access can remove the rear mount bolt and jack the back up.

I went with the more expensive gasket and changed the motronic seal at the same time.

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page