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Thread: ZF 6HP26 Sump Removal Question(s)

  1. #1
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    ZF 6HP26 Sump Removal Question(s)

    Hi All,

    I've posted a reasonably long winded post in the transmission sticky with a few (5) questions. Had mostly answered (thanks Shanegtr) but am keen to get more help with the removal and refitting of the torx bolts. Therefore have posted here to see if it gets more exposure.

    Having been under there this morning, I can see that an allen key style torx tool will probably get them all out, but can't see how I'm going to torque up the rears and fronts (these maybe OK with a knuckle and extension??) on replacement with a torque wrench.

    So:

    1. Can you do it with out removing the tranny cross member?
    2. Do they 'need' exact torquing. Or is close enough, with an allen key style torx tool, good enough?


    Cheers David.

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    Use a 1/4" drive small ratchet. They are short enough in the handle so that therre is NO WAY (unless your name is Shwarzeneggar) that you can over torque them. No need to remove crossmember. Just undo the rear mount through bolt and lift trans at the rear, then wedge a socket or something similar sized between crossmember and rear mounting .
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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    Thanks Justin.

    That's exactly the info I needed. Much appreciated. Scheduled for tomorrow week, think I now everything in place for it go smoothly....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagilmo View Post

    1. Can you do it with out removing the tranny cross member?
    2. Do they 'need' exact torquing. Or is close enough, with an allen key style torx tool, good enough?
    What justinc said.

    The specified torque for the sump securing bolts is 8nm, so not much at all. I used a torque wrench for the ones I could easily get to then used an Allen key style Torx tool for the ones that are harder to get at. I went by feel on the bolts along the ends based on what I'd just done with the torque wrench. Easy.

    Good luck! I found the whole process far less difficult than I had built it up to be in my head. It was actually pretty straight-forward and far less intimidating than I'd originally thought

    Best,

    - Andrew

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    Thanks Andrew. With the information provided, I'm sure it'll go well. Looking forward to it actually. Seems as though the box has had more than one lot of fluid, as the filler plug is pretty flogged out (either that or the wrong size torx has been used) so hoping it's still in good nick and the service eliminates the minor shudder.

  6. #6
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    x2 what Justin said

    and..
    *I dont move tranny.
    *When removing old plastic pan, turn it slightly sideways and give it a small sharp push forward which will snap the integrated filter pipe off.
    *Or if you dont have the nack then carefully slide a hacksaw blade between pan and cut pipe off.
    *As JC said, 1/4 drive and make it tight or it will leak.
    *You can get a kit that has a metal/rubber seal, its easier to fit and wont ever leak.
    *The same kit also has bolts instead or stupid torx which makes the use of a 1/4 drive even easier.
    Regards
    Daz


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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    x2 what Justin said

    and..
    *I dont move tranny.
    *When removing old plastic pan, turn it slightly sideways and give it a small sharp push forward which will snap the integrated filter pipe off.
    *Or if you dont have the nack then carefully slide a hacksaw blade between pan and cut pipe off.
    *As JC said, 1/4 drive and make it tight or it will leak.
    *You can get a kit that has a metal/rubber seal, its easier to fit and wont ever leak.
    *The same kit also has bolts instead or stupid torx which makes the use of a 1/4 drive even easier.
    Do you have a link for the pan kit with the "metal/rubber seal"?
    I had trouble sealing the replacement pan using the correct torque last time I did this job. Needed to re-torque several times to get a leak free seal

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    I only lift the back of the trans to access the rear bolts easier... pudgy hands😅
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grappler View Post
    Do you have a link for the pan kit with the "metal/rubber seal"?
    I had trouble sealing the replacement pan using the correct torque last time I did this job. Needed to re-torque several times to get a leak free seal
    This should help everyone...
    ford (non genuine) ZF 6HP26 6 Spd Automatic Trans Steel Sump/pan Conversion kit | eBay
    Regards
    Daz


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I only lift the back of the trans to access the rear bolts easier... pudgy hands😅
    Hobbit hands ?? ... I have little fairy hands myself
    Regards
    Daz


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