Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Territory motor in Disco 3 Not Happy

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi,

    i don't think that changing the fuel pressure regulator would make any difference unless it was bad but I don't think thats the case as the engine was running up till the car got shunted up the backside.
    The pressure in the fuel rail is controlled by the ECU telling the pressure regulator to release more or less pressure. So the territory ECU would just allow for more pressure than the Land rover one.
    My problem is up to 50,000 psi in the rail, and as I said before when we had a small leak in the fuel rail the engine ran and Idled ok because the pressure was lower "I assume".

    Regards Bob

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Those that know and have been there and are trying to help but you dismiss it ?
    If you think or thought you knew what the problem is why is it not running now .
    Sorry but im looking from the out side watching and find your answer`s confusing why not try them instead of guessing

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Took you advice

    Hi,

    Mechanic has been very busy on paying jobs, so this weekend he has changed the HPFP and injectors back to Land Rover ones fuel pressure is down to
    normal pressure but engine still wont run.
    It is coming up with code P2288, from what I have been reading this can be caused by a lot different things including the kitchen sink (just joking). Not
    sure where to go from here can't come up with a definitive cause.

    Regards Bob

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,450
    Total Downloaded
    0
    What year is your Disco 3?? If its a first model, EURO 3 then I cant say as fact, as I simply havent done a Territory engine in a early one (yet).
    But if its EURO 4 then take the below as well tried tested and proven.

    *have you been here? A Comprehensive Guide

    *I term "Land Rover" as the original part and "Ford" as anything that came with the Territory engine.

    *Your original issue was a faulty fuel pressure sensor (p/s front of rail), its the Ford one.
    *You cant mix and match the high pressure fuel systems.
    *The Land Rover sensor has a smaller thread, but there is a reducer on the Land Rover rail, even using the reducer you cant fit a Land Rover sensor to the Ford rail, as the Land Rover rail has a internal separate tapered seat. Where as the Ford sensor has a larger thread and it seals when fitted to the rail.
    *You mention it ran ok with the Land Rover sensor (because it was working) but there was a small leak, thats because of the above.
    *Fitting a new Ford sensor would have resolved this, they seem to fail fairly early in life.

    P.S and... who fitted the engine? you or a repairer/mechanic, mother inlaw etc?
    The code you are getting now, I think is still a fuel pressure fault from memory???
    Regards
    Daz


  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Balbarrup WA
    Posts
    571
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Territory into Land Rover

    When they put a 2015 Territory motor into my 2007 D3, they left all the fuel pump/injection system on, and I have had no problems with it as yet after 100000 K's.
    All they changed over on the motors was (and this list came from an AULRO member (thanks to them), so not my hard work. There was also some re-routing of coolant hoses because they got rid of the EGR setup.

    (Copied from an AULRO post which I can no longer locate)
    Ford motor to Land Rover

    So, the things that need to be swapped from old to new motor are:
    Sump
    Flexplate and starter motor
    Alternator
    Air con compressor
    Power steering pump
    ALL pulleys not included on the items above. This mean crank, water pump, stationery idler, tensioner and fan mount bearing
    Serpentine belt tensioner
    Fan mount bracket
    Timing belt cover
    Front water pipe that runs between EGR valves
    Bracket at the front to hold the EGR water pipe
    Turbo inlet and outlet hoses
    Water pipe that runs to left hand side of motor behind turbo pipes
    Sensor at the top of the motor near the front, that plugs into grey mesh wiring
    Plug for sensor inside the V at the back of the right bank
    Entire engine wiring loom
    Top front coolant "burp pipe"
    Engine mounts
    Alternator support bracket
    Power steering support bracket (swap or remove threaded rod)
    Lower turbo support bracket
    Dip stick tube (this does not align correctly with both retaining bolts, but one is sufficient in my opinion)
    Turbo oil drain tube

    Remove right rear lift ring from supporting bracket
    Use the Ford hose clamp where possible unless replacing with worm style, the Ford ones are a better design

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi,


    Thanks for the replys guys.


    Yes have been to the guide and read it numerous times and anything else I could get my hands on.
    A mechanic fitted the engine and swapped all parts (I'm 63 and can not do this type of work any more being a truck driver
    my arms and back are gone).


    When he changed the engines over I asked him to leave the ford HPFP and ford injectors on as they had a
    lot less klms on them but when trying to start the engine fuel pressures were going upwards of 50,000
    psi and it threw a fuel rail over pressure code P0193. It also has the Land Rover wiring loom.


    So now he has replaced the HPFP back to the Land Rover pump and changed the injectors back to the Land Rover
    ones, and now the fuel rail pressure code has gone and now we have injector control pressure to high code P2288. The
    fuel rail pressure sensor is the landrover one and it is fitted with a purpose machined reducer and does not leak
    so basically all the fuel gear is Land Rover. Thats where we are up to at the moment.


    Regards Bob

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think I will have to change the title of this thread. The problem has been solved it turned out that there was a broken wire in the engine wiring loom that was throwing the code and it is now running great. Hopefully next time I ask a question it will be easier to answer. Thanks for all your help.

    Regards Bob

  8. #18
    NavyDiver's Avatar
    NavyDiver is offline Very Very Lucky! Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,359
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Chuckled at that last post Bob. Just been on the phone with a telstra tech for the tenth time re a fall over protection for a NBN modem. It is supposed to switch to 4g if the NBN fails. Weeks of calls and parts later everything needed was in place but it did not work. While they had me on hold I found the sim card was not inserted correctly (by them not me)

    Every thing works now Glad to hear your fixed. I did wonder why your D3 2005 engine with a mere 250,000 was needing replacement. Any reason why it died on you?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by NavyDiver View Post
    Chuckled at that last post Bob. Just been on the phone with a telstra tech for the tenth time re a fall over protection for a NBN modem. It is supposed to switch to 4g if the NBN fails. Weeks of calls and parts later everything needed was in place but it did not work. While they had me on hold I found the sim card was not inserted correctly (by them not me)

    Every thing works now Glad to hear your fixed. I did wonder why your D3 2005 engine with a mere 250,000 was needing replacement. Any reason why it died on you?
    Hi

    I was heading off to Fraser island just after Easter and got about 50 klms out of Melbourne and it just went bang and stopped I haven't looked yet but I think it spun a bearing and cooked itself. When I get the old engine home I will have a good look at it.

    Regards Bob

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    21
    Total Downloaded
    0

    I think it's safe now

    Well I think I can put an end to my story now. Got the car back from the mechanics had it for 3 days to and from work on the 4th day drove to work at 5.30pm all good finished work at 3.30am got into car started motor alternator light came on low coolant light came on opened the bonnet and had a look the water pump was hanging off the front of the motor. It had sheared off the 3 6mm bolts, on a flat bed back to the mechanics. He seemed to think that the water pump had been replaced and the bolts were over tightened. He used the bolts from the Land Rover motor. It has been 5 weeks now and have not had a problem at all it is running great, so hopefully will get some trips in and enjoy it. Thanks to all the people who parted with information and suggestions it was a great help.

    Regards Bob

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!