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Thread: Auxiliary Battery Issues

  1. #11
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    If there was a loose fitting before, there definitely wasn't during my 2nd test at 50mA over 7 days as the terminals were corroded beyond used, I bought new ones, everything from that point onwards is soldered.

  2. #12
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    I would firstly request a replacement under warranty. Then, when they refuse, say that you want a copy of their official complaint procedure so that you can follow consumer guidelines before contacting Fair Trading to have it sorted out. In my experience companies start to pay a bit more notice when they know you're not prepared to put up with this sort of rubbish and are quite willing to escalate the matter to Fair Trading for a resolution. Goods have to be fit for purpose under Australian Consumer law.

    In the meantime document what you've done and take photos as proof of your claims.

    Martin

  3. #13
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    This is what you're up for if your Yellow Top Optima fails, 3 months of being messed around. By comparison on another vehicle i had a Century battery fail that was 22 months old in January. I had a replacement battery within 7 days, no questions asked, quick test and it was done.
    The guy doing the testing seemed to think it was due for replacement at 18 months old anyway. Tell me again why we spend $305 on a 55Ah battery?

  4. #14
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    Mine has been warped for months. Apparently that's normal too.
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    I know two people who’ve had warranty denied on Yellowtops that warped but didn’t leak. With the change of distributor there seems to have been a change of attitude to warranty.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Tell me again why we spend $305 on a 55Ah battery?
    Find a better option that fits the same space on same tray and I’m in. I just replaced my Yellowtop after 4 years with another. No flaws but not holding charge quite as well and didn’t test to a sufficiently high level for peace of mind on an upcoming outback trip. Checked it today after sitting under the house for a week and got 12.5V, so it’s still serviceable. So my guess is Optima quality is up and down compared to years ago but what to put in its place?

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    Find a better option that fits the same space on same tray and I’m in. I just replaced my Yellowtop after 4 years with another. No flaws but not holding charge quite as well and didn’t test to a sufficiently high level for peace of mind on an upcoming outback trip. Checked it today after sitting under the house for a week and got 12.5V, so it’s still serviceable. So my guess is Optima quality is up and down compared to years ago but what to put in its place?

    Scott
    30% cheaper, same weight, same overall dimension, 25% more capacity. Plus Australian Made.
    Century Deep Cycle Battery - NS70T, 75Ah - Supercheap Auto

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Same price, same weight, same overall dimension, 25% more capacity and AGM. Plus Australian Made.
    Century C12-75DA 12V 75Ah Deep Cycle - AGM

    Scratch that, can't store AGM under bonnet apparently.
    I had a FullRiver AGM under the bonnet of my Pajero for years. Apparently they don't like the heat, but this was pretty close to the turbo and was still good 4 years later. I wouldn't be too worried putting an AGM under the bonnet again, particularly when it has significantly more AH than the Yellow tops.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    30% cheaper, same weight, same overall dimension, 25% more capacity. Plus Australian Made.
    Century Deep Cycle Battery - NS70T, 75Ah - Supercheap Auto
    Specs don't list a CCA rating. Can you use a battery like that to jump start yourself if your main battery carks it.
    2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
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    1984 RRC, in hell

  9. #19
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    Both the Century batteries mentioned are 20mm taller than Optima D34 and this would get very close to the bonnet.
    Also slightly longer and there's not much spare room in the tray. Could modify tray slightly.
    The NS70T is not sealed and needs topping up. The C12-75DA AGM has the comment re not putting under bonnet.

    Might be ok, might not but that's the point really; not too many equivalent options.
    I'm going to see how this second D34 goes and then decide. Hopefully I get another 4 years but seems like there's a chance it'll be a dodgy one.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  10. #20
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    Is it 20mm taller though? Do the Optima dimensions include the terminal height? If not they're identical.

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