Tyres - but probably different

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Celtoid

I was under the impression that TTM locked the suspension at a null point of something ~ +/- 2-3mm. Locked ... as in stopped it moving completely. It's possible I mis-interpreted what I'd read though.

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I've just been through the tedious process of getting a wheel alignment done. First tyre shop said 'yair mate no worries she'll be right' and proceeded to cock it up to the point where I had to find another tyre shop (Tyrepower in Busselton) who said 'yair mate we've done more than a hundred of these' - but when I mentioned TTM I got a blank stare.
In the end I had to show them how, using my own Gap iid tool.

It's still not perfect, but it's a lot better than the first cowboys.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Celtoid

I was under the impression that TTM locked the suspension at a null point of something ~ +/- 2-3mm. Locked ... as in stopped it moving completely.

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No it's not locked, there is a different mode for that known as Build Mode that's not typically used and stops all adjustments.
TTM holds the suspension within a +/-3mm range of the nominal height where as normal mode keeps the suspension within +/-10mm range.
But either way the suspension remains active.

I don't bother getting into a discussion anymore re alignment, I simply put it in TTM on the forecourt of the tyre shop.
They all have various urban myths about what works (doors open, engine running, etc) all of which are rubbish.

The key is finding someone who can do a proper alignment and this is a skill that can be independent of the diagnostic tool and TTM.

Cheers,
Scott

I've just had my wheel alignment done after the new set of Maxxis were fitted. Tyre retailer admitted they couldn't do it but said they used to have a bloke who opened and shut doors and turned the ignition on/off a few times etc......
Anyway I went to the stealer tyre outlet in Osborne Park rather than get some clowns supposedly do it.... and the steering feels better. Now to see this Sunday when out with LROCWA how the tyres perform on a bit of rough ground. Only gently rough though and hopefully not muddy as I hate cleaning it off afterwards. :(
Cheers.
Alan.

PS. If the Cooks well enough in a few weeks we'll be off to the Kimberley which is why I bought the tyres rather than risk going with the road things they sell the Discos with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ATH

I've just had my wheel alignment done after the new set of Maxxis were fitted. Tyre retailer admitted they couldn't do it but said they used to have a bloke who opened and shut doors and turned the ignition on/off a few times etc......
Anyway I went to the stealer tyre outlet in Osborne Park rather than get some clowns supposedly do it.... and the steering feels better. Now to see this Sunday when out with LROCWA how the tyres perform on a bit of rough ground. Only gently rough though and hopefully not muddy as I hate cleaning it off afterwards. :(
Cheers.
Alan.

PS. If the Cooks well enough in a few weeks we'll be off to the Kimberley which is why I bought the tyres rather than risk going with the road things they sell the Discos with.

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I've got the same tyres Alan, but just had my alignment done with the OEM Wranglers on. Did Tyreright do yours while in TTM?

Apparently they did Greg, as they told me all about it. :) Strangely they told me that Maxxis weren't what they recommend but when I was looking around they tried to flog me a set of 4 near new 980s for less than $300 ea. and didn't say a word against them then.
Normal behaviour for a retailer I suppose.
The "D" drives better anyway and even the Cook reckoned something felt better on the freeway.
AlanH.

PS. I suspect the past owner of the "near new" tyres had to pay them 6 bucks each for disposal but of course that may just be me being a touch cynical.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LRD414

No it's not locked, there is a different mode for that known as Build Mode that's not typically used and stops all adjustments.
TTM holds the suspension within a +/-3mm range of the nominal height where as normal mode keeps the suspension within +/-10mm range.
But either way the suspension remains active.

I don't bother getting into a discussion anymore re alignment, I simply put it in TTM on the forecourt of the tyre shop.
They all have various urban myths about what works (doors open, engine running, etc) all of which are rubbish.

The key is finding someone who can do a proper alignment and this is a skill that can be independent of the diagnostic tool and TTM.

Cheers,
Scott

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Thanks for clearing that up Scott.

From earlier posts it sounds like you've had some issues finding the 'Key' organization that know what they are doing on a LR.

Cheers,

Kev.

Mine hasn't had an alignment yet,i am not game enough to let anyone fiddle with it.

On second set of tyres,first set wore perfectly,so not overly worried about it.

I didn’t like the way the original tyres were wearing so decided to start the new tyres off right. I hope they wear as well as the Maxxis I had on a Prado years back.
AlanH.

Have been told by wheel aligner when I first got my D3, that to set up a D3 for a 4 wheel align, method was to park it on the aligning pads, with engine running, lower the suspension, once "low", then switch to raise/max height, once at max heinght, set to normal ride height.
Once it has returned to normal ride height, leave drivers door ajar, turn off motor and align.
Seems the open door stops vehicle self adjusting while rest of wheels are done.
Have found that generally seems to work, AS LONG AS THE ALIGNMENT DEVICE HAS BEEN CALIBRATED AND IS ALL AS IT SHOULD BE and the operator is professional.

Did have a LR "expert" aligner early on, who managed to align it so badly, that I stripped out the edge on a pair of new rear tyres in 1600k's.
Too bad I had it aligned before departing on my 1600k trip, so was a long way from the aligner before I worked out I had lost 2 tyres to the "expert" alignment.
I did a roadside "alignment" by eye with a crescent (camber was that far out you coluld see it) to get it back to the city.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vbrab

Have been told by wheel aligner when I first got my D3, that to set up a D3 for a 4 wheel align, method was to park it on the aligning pads, with engine running, lower the suspension, once "low", then switch to raise/max height, once at max heinght, set to normal ride height.
Once it has returned to normal ride height, leave drivers door ajar, turn off motor and align.
Seems the open door stops vehicle self adjusting while rest of wheels are done.
Have found that generally seems to work, AS LONG AS THE ALIGNMENT DEVICE HAS BEEN CALIBRATED AND IS ALL AS IT SHOULD BE and the operator is professional.

Did have a LR "expert" aligner early on, who managed to align it so badly, that I stripped out the edge on a pair of new rear tyres in 1600k's.
Too bad I had it aligned before departing on my 1600k trip, so was a long way from the aligner before I worked out I had lost 2 tyres to the "expert" alignment.
I did a roadside "alignment" by eye with a crescent (camber was that far out you coluld see it) to get it back to the city.

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Paragraph #1 - Refer to all other discussions on magical routines employed outside TTM. Opening the driver's door does absolutely nothing (He'd have lost me the second he suggested leaving the door ajar achieved anything) and the car's suspension still moves even with the car off and locked. I've noticed mine doing it straight after shutdown on occasions and it even does it every six hours I believe after being switched off and locked. TTM was developed for a reason.
Paragraph #2 - Was the "expert" a guy who said he knows boats or actually configured the car in TTM and still stuffed it up or was he just bad at doing what your other guy described in paragraph #1? [smilebigeye]

Most LR Service Centres don't do wheel alignments. They set the car in TTM and get somebody else to do it. I guess it's not guaranteed but you'd assume LR have done something to ensure they know what is supposed to be done and probably supply the specifications.