I bought a torque wrench

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*Site monkeys both on construction and mines break wheel studs all the time, everyday doing pre-start checks tightening wheel lugs a bit more each day.

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Not on my mine site we dont - tyre fitters use torque wrenches here and we dont touch the nuts during a prestart

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*Use of a torque wrench on the wheel lugs also ensures alloy wheels/rotors are not distorted.

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Not sure about the Discos, but the quickest way to warp a rotor on a Volvo is to rattle gun the wheel on and heat cycle the rotor. I know the Volvo is sensitive, but I assume it's the same for pretty much any car with discs.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Not sure about the Discos, but the quickest way to warp a rotor on a Volvo is to rattle gun the wheel on and heat cycle the rotor. I know the Volvo is sensitive, but I assume it's the same for pretty much any car with discs.

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True perhaps but NO ONE owns a volvo so its a non issue [thumbsupbig]

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

True perhaps but NO ONE owns a volvo so its a non issue [thumbsupbig]

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Don't say that too soon! The Volvo drivers are back I see them everywhere now most of them are ****wits on the road.

Back to subject I think the alloy rim is less torque because of the chance of cracking the rim.

Cheers Jim

Dont think too hard about it all..... they are wheel nuts... round 140NM on anything is going to be fine.

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Originally Posted by LRJim

Haha nah your alright just playing with ya, it is an interesting topic (insert can of worms here) you are right though i only use it when its really needed majority of the time just keep the wrench in its case. There's a torque for almost everything whether you use it or not lol there's probably a torque for the spare wheel carrier nuts hahaha

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There actually is.
If you look in the manual there is a 'correct' tension for every fastener.

If it's a non critical fastener I won't use a tension wrench but if it's something that could cause me grief if it either came loose or fractured I tend to use them.

And just a FWIW I have a study filed away somewhere where Ford fatigue life
tested rod bolts that were correctly, under and over tensioned.

Interestingly the under tensioned bolts failed well before the over and correctly tensioned bolts. IIRC it was something like half the life.

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

Do you change torque settings if there steel rims? Or if the rims have different taper? I would assume that would require different settings, outside factory settings?

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Alloys are usually less than steel and 130HD rims use a higher nut tension than stock steel rims.
The centre is thicker gauge steel so there is less distortion in the centre and requires a higher tension so the nuts don't come loose, somewhere between 120-130lb/ft.

To put it to rest this is from the D1 book. But with the exception to the HD rims

Cheershttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a44487a0b.jpg

It does not put it to rest for me hahahahaa.

I have asked the same questions several times here without reply.

If the taper on the rims is different ie Dynamic rims will it require a different setting given the taper would increase the bite zone of the nut. Beyond the Alloy/Steel settings described above?

Also do people calibrate there torque wrenches as this is vital to getting torque correct. Just leaving it for one night not reset to 0 can blow out the calibration. I know i have done it several times.

I will confess i have NEVER calibrated a torque wrench.

I have deflecting beam type torque wrenches, Warren & Brown brand and acquired both a 1/2" and 3/8" second hand for around $100each and when I check them they were within a couple of nm when tested against some Norbar wrenches that a friend lent me. Saves worrying about resetting it to zero or dropping to some extend, however you must remember to reset signal pipper/clicker after each use.