Thread: D3 front wheel bearing replace.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Because 5m long breaker bars were hard to come by?

Early failures I believe

Righto. Unsuccessful day. Axle nut too big for my largest socket. New nut is a 32mm socket but existing nut is bigger. By the time I got to it today couldn't find a bigger socket from any of the usual, open Sat afternoon, suspects.

Does anyone know what size socket it might be?

Originally Posted by Dagilmo

Righto. Unsuccessful day. Axle nut too big for my largest socket. New nut is a 32mm socket but existing nut is bigger. By the time I got to it today couldn't find a bigger socket from any of the usual, open Sat afternoon, suspects.

Does anyone know what size socket it might be?

This may help.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hub nut size

Try to get 6 point sockets. I found the 12 points used with a breaker bar twist and round off the nut. The 6 point was much better.

Originally Posted by banjoship

One thought in the back of my mind is whether to carry a spare. With previous 4wds I always carried spare bearings, as they were serviceable. And with old style bearings, I found they often deteriorated with frequent river crossings (on my farms, up to 6 crossings a day). With my D3 I wonder how often the sealed bearings fail, and whether it is advisable to carry a spare hub. Any thoughts?

Lee

They are a sealed unit and usually give plenty of warning. I couldn't hear mine from inside the car and only knew because mechanic told me they had 'play and a slight grinding noise'.

I would just check each wheel every few days if it's something your worried about. The hubs are heavy and aren't really necessary as a carry on spare.

How did you go? If you have a larger 32mm nut I could mean that the driver shaft has been replaced and the 32mm nut won’t fit as the thread will be different.

Just some info...

*Basically the same setup as the previous Discovery 2, complete bearing/hub assembly.
*Good setup and just like a Discovery 2 could easily be changed in the bush.
*Dont get all hung up on the centre retaining nut, it secures the splined axle to the hub, nothing more.
*Again its a use a genuine (or OEM) or you will be replacing the cheap one down the track.

----
The other end (the rear bearing assembly) is the ugly bit and prolly impossible to change in the bush unless you happen to have a tray back Defender with a press on board.

Originally Posted by SeanC

This may help.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hub nut size

Try to get 6 point sockets. I found the 12 points used with a breaker bar twist and round off the nut. The 6 point was much better.

Great. Thanks. 36mm. Supercheap have them in the 6 point version in stock.

I managed to get 280,000 k's out of my 1st wheel hubs. But I operate mostly on dry roads with very few water crossings, and on reasonable unmade roads.
That said I did have to navigate 8k's of continuously flooded Kimberly roads, and a few
Wasn't aware of any problem with them until I left it for big service and they reckoned they had to replace all 4 hubs.
Seems that if you can wiggle the wheel (top to bottom, rather than side to side), then that indicates bearing going/gone.
I always carry a front hub as a spare anyway as I am remote (and I suppose I should also carry a rear spare).
And the Timken bearing hubs are the way to go (avoid the cheaper options).

Originally Posted by banjoship

One thought in the back of my mind is whether to carry a spare. With previous 4wds I always carried spare bearings, as they were serviceable. And with old style bearings, I found they often deteriorated with frequent river crossings (on my farms, up to 6 crossings a day). With my D3 I wonder how often the sealed bearings fail, and whether it is advisable to carry a spare hub. Any thoughts?

Lee