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Thread: access to front left hand door speaker (D4)

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Not sure I find it funny Ghost, as
    I’m sure it’ll cost real money. It’s LR, easy fix, hahaha, yeah nah.
    Agreed. I more found it 'funny' (sarcasm!) that I thought it was an intermittent problem specific to me, and then see the repeats on this post!
    It hasn't been a major issue for me - when I notice it, i just crank the volume up, and it comes on, then turn it back down to reasonable listening levels!!!
    I'd assumed maybe a loose connection, but haven't (yet) had the time to pull the door apart.

    As an aside, I had the rear door panels off recently to replace an actuator motor/lock mechanism. There's a couple of minor tricks, but fairly straightforward. Youtube is invaluable. And I assume the fronts would be similar.

    Thanks.

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks View Post
    Agreed. I more found it 'funny' (sarcasm!) that I thought it was an intermittent problem specific to me, and then see the repeats on this post!
    It hasn't been a major issue for me - when I notice it, i just crank the volume up, and it comes on, then turn it back down to reasonable listening levels!!!
    I'd assumed maybe a loose connection, but haven't (yet) had the time to pull the door apart.

    As an aside, I had the rear door panels off recently to replace an actuator motor/lock mechanism. There's a couple of minor tricks, but fairly straightforward. Youtube is invaluable. And I assume the fronts would be similar.

    Thanks.

    Rob
    My gut feeling is it’s not a loose connection. The connectors are rock solid on the speakers. I suspect it’s an source/amp/channel issue. I don’t think I’ve heard the issue on Bluetooth but only on the radio, but can’t confirm.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #13
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    Driver’s side door speaker needs a whack sometimes if no volume. If low volume a whack or turning up the volume above a certain level fixes it. I’m thinking loose connection.
    MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.

  4. #14
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    I have experimented on three occasions now with the 'turn it up loud' approach if my front left speaker was taking the day off. So far, it has worked every time and the left speaker has remained working for the rest of the drive (15+ minutes). That said, I have not been for along drive yet. All very peculiar.

  5. #15
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    Anyone had a crack at fixing this yet? It’s driving me bonkers having to hit the speaker or fiddle with the volume.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #16
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    One day, after giving it so much physical abuse, you'll break the bloody thing proper like, & then you'll be in more strife than Ned Kelly with a huge parts bill.

    Don't know the electrical connections LR use but mine has the simple Spade Terminals & has never had this problem. Typical, no problem exists so LR come up with a "better" method of connection & now one does.

  7. #17
    mikeford Guest

    Mystery

    My 2012 D4 SE used to lose sound output on the drivers door about 2 years after I bought it. The dealer and an indie had a go at fixing it over a couple of years but could not find anything wrong, it would come good for a couple of months then stop working for a while. No pattern to it, used to annoy the hell out of me. I don't have my D4 now. Good luck fixing your problem.
    Last edited by mikeford; 10th December 2018 at 10:46 AM. Reason: Bad spelling

  8. #18
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    2011 D4 with same problem passenger side front. Took it to a car sound specialist for a morning. They found a loose or shonky connection at the amp under the front seat. Cost $30. No further issues. If only all problems could be resolved so easily.


    Mario

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkalpokas@mac.com View Post
    2011 D4 with same problem passenger side front. Took it to a car sound specialist for a morning. They found a loose or shonky connection at the amp under the front seat. Cost $30. No further issues. If only all problems could be resolved so easily.


    Mario
    Sadly I don’t believe this is my issue else me bashing the door shouldn’t improve it, but it does. I also don’t believe it’s the connector as they’re in good condition. I suspect a voice coil issue however I’ve run some electronic contact cleaner across the amp connections and speaker and we’ll see.



    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  10. #20
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Sadly I don’t believe this is my issue else me bashing the door shouldn’t improve it, but it does. I also don’t believe it’s the connector as they’re in good condition. I suspect a voice coil issue however I’ve run some electronic contact cleaner across the amp connections and speaker and we’ll see.
    All these "belt it" or "crank it up" issues are consistent with a dodgy wire between the speaker basket and cone (where it connects to the voice coil). I've never seen it on the Landrover, but I've seen it on countless speakers over the years.

    A conclusive test is if you can poke something through the grille and "very gently" move the cone when it's not working. If it's the wire you'll hear a crackle or it'll burst into life. Don't go poking a hole in the cone however.

    If that is the case the only practical fix is a new speaker.

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