So on the weekend I replaced the upper coolant housing under the throttle body for the first time. The gunk in the MAP sensor and throttle body, well it wasn’t pretty. I’ve heard about the junk coming out of the EGRs but I was still surprised. Anyway it took about 1 hour to change the outlet then when I had a leak about 20 mins the second time.
Back when I was researching everything D3 I remember something on the Rover Works Canberra website about changing a cooling outlet when they changed the timing belt.
So I found it again. This is what it said. “it’s quite a complex area on the engine, so there would be 3 hours labour to change it on its own.”
3 hours?? Have I suddenly become a highly experienced Land Rover mechanic?
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
This is how I ended up doing it.
Remove the large air pipe running from the air filter box across the radiator.
Remove the viscous fan shroud.
Remove the retaining clip connecting the inlet pipe to the front of the throttle body.
Remove the mounting bolt on the lower left of the inlet.
Unclip the two electrical connections and swing the inlet out of the way.
Disconnect the connection to the MAP sensor and remove the fuel temperature sensor at the back of the throttle body in the V between the two outlet pipes. Be careful mine was very brittle and the mount broke.
Unclip the clips connecting the EGR pipes to the throttle body. I used a pair of pliers and gripped the top of the clip (front and back) and twist towards you and the clip should pop open.
Follow the EGR pipe away from the throttle body and you will find a bracket. Undo the bracket to allow you to get a bit more movement to get the pipes out of the way.
Remove the throttle body mounting bolt on the top centre left.
You should be able to remove the throttle body. It takes a bit of a pull.
You can now access the water outlet, disconnect the pipes and remove. You need to twist the large front pipe to disconnect.
Then everything in reverse. The rear vertical inlet of the water out doesn’t click in but seals as you screw the outlet down.
The throttle body takes a bit of force to get the rear outlets in. Tried to get both lined up with the openings at the same time but couldn’t. I ended up getting one side just lined up and gave the other a short sharp push and it popped in.
This is the way I did it. It might not be the best or fastest way but it worked for me especially the second time round. Be careful I may have forgotten something.
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
To disconnect the throttle body from the inlet manifolds, raise the front of the throttle body slightly, rotate the throttle body anti-clockwise causing the outlet going to the driver's side inlet manifold to go down at which time it will clear the inlet manifold, then pull the throttle housing out of the passenger side inlet manifold. Refitting is the reverse. No springing is required.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
I watched my son R&R his in seconds last w/e - he's well practised.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
3 hours is nothing, just had the swivel hubs redone on the D1 and when I questioned the $490 in parts that I could buy for $180 I was informed that it was to make up for the labour
They charged me 5 hours and said it took the mechanic 7 ????
What mechanic would take 7 hours to do swivel seals at $150 / hour
Time for a new mechanic yet again, why do they feel they can just take the p### after a couple of years of service
Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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