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Thread: GoE sliders - mounting hardware details

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    Scott's original post on this is here: A question on rocksliders
    Thanks - so there wasn't any quality issue with the GOE gear, rather, a different design preferred (?)

    Good to know, as I quite liked the idea of the lighter Alloy option. But I think I've digressed enough for one thread!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Apple CarPlay, Power and Heated Seat retrofit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), BFG KO2 for play

  2. #12
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    I originally used the button heads with large stainless mudguard washers (painted black)



    Then changed them over to these conical washers with countersunk screws later.

    No good reason really - saw Scott's and just like the look of them



    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-450N
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoClax View Post
    Thanks Chops. If there's no special bits (crush-tubes, spacers, doohickeys) and it's is just nuts and bolts and panel washers I should be able to work it out pretty easy with a few key bits of info (ie. thread and length).

    The instructions from the GoE website state "Loosely fit the centre sidebolt a couple of threads (Figure 6). Getting under the sill, fit the 3 underside bolts loosely (Figure 7) and then the side front and rear. Tighten up all bolts."

    That would indicate six bolts per side in total for the GoE ones. If those bolts thread into existing fixed nuts in the body (as I suspect they do) then I need to know the thread as getting in there could be difficult to measure it.

    Hmmmm.... Laterally thinking...(coffee has just kicked in) I just went to APTs website and Ben thoughtfully lists the hardware used as "M8*30 grade 12.9 button head zinc plated bolts and flat washers". I'd read that as all bolts being M8 and 30mm long. The APT ones use 11 fixings per side (probably because Ben likes to overkill this stuff). Watched his video also to verify and that certainly seems to be the case. Does that match your experience for the GoE one (ie. all bolts are the same length, big washers, no nuts used, nothing else)? If so I'll just grab a bag of M8x30 pan-heads in a decent grade and finish and some nice chunky panel washers and happy days
    Sorry dude, got somewhat busy at work, then flew out running late without checking.
    I see you have Bens info, and all up to date . We did think about swapping out to his steel sliders, but decided that the barge needs to be kept to a minimum in weight. We do however have all his under carriage gear to go on yet.

  4. #14
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    Yes I have the full suite of Ben's gear to go on also. Went mad and ticked every box. Very nice indeed. Great customer service and support right there. He really stands behind his stuff. I was going to ask him to do a set of custom L320 side step sliders for mine but ended up going with an existing option instead as I thought that'd be easier and quicker and well worth the extra spend. None of that ended up being true... Live and learn. But they are fairly light and look strong so there's a couple of pluses. And I have them now

    BTW. Definitely no hardware. Box had been taped back together by TNT so I suspect they were lost along the way. Gordon has offered to send another set Express Post.

    Thanks for all your help
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    Good to know, as I quite liked the idea of the lighter Alloy option. But I think I've digressed enough for one thread!
    Alloy not strong enough for my usage was also a factor. Plus I consider the additional attachment points used on APT better for load distribution.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    .... changed them over to these conical washers with countersunk screws later.

    No good reason really - saw Scott's and just like the look of them
    The conical washers are significantly stronger and so better distribute the load into the plate. This is preferred because the holes are slotted to allow for variation in the attachment point locations and so you want to distribute the load into as much plate area as possible around the slot.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  7. #17
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    Conical washers

    I used a similar idea to blank off the factory roof rails as I reckon it looks a bit better than just jamming a hex-head in there. M6 in this case.

    L320 roof.jpg
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

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