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Thread: GoE sliders - mounting hardware details

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    GoE sliders - mounting hardware details

    Hello all.

    I've just received my GoE sliders (L320) without any mounting hardware (burst box, lost in transit?). Can anyone advise what the kit is supposed to come with (quantities, bolt thread size, length, grade, nuts, washers, spacers, other?) All I've got is the two step-sliders and a slightly mangled cardboard box.

    And yes, I have messaged Gordon but my expectations have been somewhat lowered in that regard. Likely just need to sort it out myself. Hence this query.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

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    Hmm, this is for the D4, 2016,, but I think from memory they’re 10mm Dome heads, and I can’t remember if it’s 4 or 5 per side. I’ll check shortly and report back,, at least it may help with bolt size. I know Scott changed his supplied bolts over for something different, maybe Stainless (??). They also run a fairly large washer too I think. I’ll get length etc soon.

    Not it sure how different yours will be,, if at all. You may need to check out a few build threads to see what others have done, or, you may just need to start pulling yours apart and see how you go.

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    Go stainless, the supplied screws rust pretty much immediately.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoClax View Post
    Hello all.

    I've just received my GoE sliders (L320) without any mounting hardware (burst box, lost in transit?).
    Thought I was supplied GOE sliders without mounting hardware too. But turns out they were sticky taped inside the long box the sliders were delivered in. They don't just fall out when you turn the box upside down to check there was nothing else in the box.
    2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  5. #5
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    Thanks Chops. If there's no special bits (crush-tubes, spacers, doohickeys) and it's is just nuts and bolts and panel washers I should be able to work it out pretty easy with a few key bits of info (ie. thread and length).

    The instructions from the GoE website state "Loosely fit the centre sidebolt a couple of threads (Figure 6). Getting under the sill, fit the 3 underside bolts loosely (Figure 7) and then the side front and rear. Tighten up all bolts."

    That would indicate six bolts per side in total for the GoE ones. If those bolts thread into existing fixed nuts in the body (as I suspect they do) then I need to know the thread as getting in there could be difficult to measure it.

    Hmmmm.... Laterally thinking...(coffee has just kicked in) I just went to APTs website and Ben thoughtfully lists the hardware used as "M8*30 grade 12.9 button head zinc plated bolts and flat washers". I'd read that as all bolts being M8 and 30mm long. The APT ones use 11 fixings per side (probably because Ben likes to overkill this stuff). Watched his video also to verify and that certainly seems to be the case. Does that match your experience for the GoE one (ie. all bolts are the same length, big washers, no nuts used, nothing else)? If so I'll just grab a bag of M8x30 pan-heads in a decent grade and finish and some nice chunky panel washers and happy days
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret View Post
    Thought I was supplied GOE sliders without mounting hardware too. But turns out they were sticky taped inside the long box the sliders were delivered in. They don't just fall out when you turn the box upside down to check there was nothing else in the box.
    Thanks Ferret. I'll double-check tonight. I did have a decent bloke look but maybe not well enough to stake my life on it.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoClax View Post
    Does that match your experience for the GoE one (ie. all bolts are the same length, big washers, no nuts used, nothing else)?
    I can confirm this. I got rid of GOE sliders and replaced with APT, which use more fixings per side than GOE but yes all fixings are the same (just bolt & washer).

    I subsequently changed the washers out for these type:



    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    I got rid of GOE sliders and replaced with APT
    At the risk of veering off topic, can I ask why?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Apple CarPlay, Power and Heated Seat retrofit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), BFG KO2 for play

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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    At the risk of veering off topic, can I ask why?
    * Grabs popcorn, leans forwards *
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    At the risk of veering off topic, can I ask why?
    Scott's original post on this is here: A question on rocksliders
    =
    I fitted a set of GOE slider plates back in May without any stand-off bars (refer page 5).
    My logic was that I didn't need side steps and wouldn't do "extreme" tracks, therefore mainly wanted protection from below.
    However it has always nagged at me, summed up nicely by Baz earlier in this thread ....
    "The stand-off bar can help if the track you're on is tight or you are close to objects such as rocks and tree roots, you don't need to be doing anything extreme to come across these obstacles."
    So I've upgraded. Ben from APT helped me install a set of his sliders complete with stand-off bars and skid plate.
    =

    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-450N
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

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