Assuming that the trick of isolating the interior lights from coming on by pushing and holding the middle button has no impact on telling the car not to wake up?
Clearly the double flash is a sign of some computer acknowledging the request.
This topic has been mentioned many times over the years.
Leave one door slightly ajar and the vehicle electronics will shut down.
I usually leave the drivers door ajar as I've observed that other occupants usually don't have the necessary skills not to slam doors.
An old thread, I know, but I'm about to install an anderson plug in the back of my D2 (as I've just purchased a T-Van) and, like Turtle, was considering connecting the negative cable to the rear of the chassis. Are there any arguments as to why this should not be done. I could connect another earth at the front earth point to the chassis if this would help. TIA.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
2016 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE, Mitch hitch, Traxide dual battery system, GME UHF radio, LLAMS, Rhino awning, Fourby Fitouts drawer system, Cel-Fi Go mobile booster, Safety Dave TPMS, APT side steps and compressor cover
2016 AOR Matrix Pop Top camper trailer,
Gordigear rooftop tent.
Hi Biggin, the problem with finding a high current capable earth point, other than at the negative terminal of a battery, is that there is no simple way to measure if a prospective earth point will actually carry CONTINUOUS high currents.
With many new vehicle, it is hard to determine if an earth point is a direct ELECTRICAL connection to the cranking battery’s earth point.
If you have a single solid chassis rail, from front to back, you should be fine.
Up until recently, while I was pretty sure the studs in the rear of D3s and D4s would make suitable high current earth points, without carrying out full load tests, I could not be positive that they were safe.
I was loaned a D4, and was able to carry out a full load test.
The test required a constant 80 amp load being passed through the stud and both the current and voltage were continuously monitored for 1 hour.
During the hour test, if either the voltage or the current dropped, even slowly, the test would have been terminated and the stud ruled out as a reliable earth point.
While the 6B&S cable connecting to the stud was warm at the end of the test, the voltage and current remained constant and more importantly the area around the stud was still room temperature.
This is sort of test that is needed to be done, to be able to establish a reliable and safe earth return in any vehicle where you can not find a decent chassis earth return.
Thank you Odysseyman and Drivesafe, I really appreciate the feedback. I’m confident that I will see a good earth with a clean connection at both ends of the chassis rail.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
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