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Thread: Running 6b&s to rear anderson plug

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsalt View Post
    Is there some "simple" way to stop this happening ?, maybe a big red switch which isolates the fuse responsible for the "waking up" procedure... This may sound
    a bit simplistic but "why the hell" does the car need to keep checking ?... this seems to be an achilles heel to the Landrovers... I've parked the car...I'm happy with it's "level"...so just
    let me get on with camping without being worried that the damn onboard computer is going to ruin my day !!!!!
    I appreciate the "solution" given re putting all your gear in the boot but I have gear spread throughout the car and that's the way I camp - I don't want to arrive at a campsite and have to pile everything in the boot just because my car likes to "wake-up" every time I open a door...!!!!
    I't times like this that I miss my old kombi... it may not have been able to get to the places my D3 can...BUT...when I turned the key off it stayed off !!!!
    rant over....
    cheers
    Is this where I offer to buy your vehicle from you and post a link to a kombi? They’re available, it’s an easy switchover?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsalt View Post
    Is there some "simple" way to stop this happening ?, maybe a big red switch which isolates the fuse responsible for the "waking up" procedure..
    I normally leave a couple of windows open (if the weather is good) during the day, and I get the kids to take all their stuff into the camper. This limits the amount of wake ups.

  3. #43
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    Assuming that the trick of isolating the interior lights from coming on by pushing and holding the middle button has no impact on telling the car not to wake up?

    Clearly the double flash is a sign of some computer acknowledging the request.

  4. #44
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    Sleeping D4

    This topic has been mentioned many times over the years.

    Leave one door slightly ajar and the vehicle electronics will shut down.

    I usually leave the drivers door ajar as I've observed that other occupants usually don't have the necessary skills not to slam doors.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turtle60 View Post
    Concur with taxide comments above from someone who has walked the talk on this set up. After totally failing to get a charge to my camper batteries with the existing setup, which simply was a dual battery with under bonnet red arc isolator to a dual battery in the rear of our camper I sort advice from Tim whose simple and easy advice was upgrade the cable as I had a 12 metre run (24 actually). Too much voltage drop.
    My knowledge was and is still low on 12 volt but learning heaps.
    I massively up graded the cables to the rear Anderson plug and also changed out the pathetically underdone camper wiring and now get 14.2 - 14.4V at the camper batteries with no dc dc charger in sight. Perfect.
    one thing to make it easier I just grounded the rear (-) close underneath to save running a pair of BIG cables all the way to underbonnet isolator. No problems thus far at all but Tim may chime in here.
    Your set up will work but use big cables to start with and be done with it. At least you have a 40 amp redarc. Anything less and you are virtually throttling DOWN charging potential quite significantly. Why have a 160 amp alternator that with big cable can deliver this and then put a device in line to effectively limit the output to ( in most cases) 20 amps. Never made sense to me.
    An old thread, I know, but I'm about to install an anderson plug in the back of my D2 (as I've just purchased a T-Van) and, like Turtle, was considering connecting the negative cable to the rear of the chassis. Are there any arguments as to why this should not be done. I could connect another earth at the front earth point to the chassis if this would help. TIA.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggin View Post
    An old thread, I know, but I'm about to install an anderson plug in the back of my D2 (as I've just purchased a T-Van) and, like Turtle, was considering connecting the negative cable to the rear of the chassis. Are there any arguments as to why this should not be done. I could connect another earth at the front earth point to the chassis if this would help. TIA.
    I connected the 6B&S earth cable to my Alko disc brake compressor in my camper to the earth point at the rear of the vehicle. So far no problem, the brakes work as they should, but I do know the ideal is to run it right back to the battery.

    David
    2016 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE, Mitch hitch, Traxide dual battery system, GME UHF radio, LLAMS, Rhino awning, Fourby Fitouts drawer system, Cel-Fi Go mobile booster, Safety Dave TPMS, APT side steps and compressor cover
    2016 AOR Matrix Pop Top camper trailer,
    Gordigear rooftop tent.

  7. #47
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    Hi Biggin, the problem with finding a high current capable earth point, other than at the negative terminal of a battery, is that there is no simple way to measure if a prospective earth point will actually carry CONTINUOUS high currents.

    With many new vehicle, it is hard to determine if an earth point is a direct ELECTRICAL connection to the cranking battery’s earth point.

    If you have a single solid chassis rail, from front to back, you should be fine.

    Up until recently, while I was pretty sure the studs in the rear of D3s and D4s would make suitable high current earth points, without carrying out full load tests, I could not be positive that they were safe.

    I was loaned a D4, and was able to carry out a full load test.

    The test required a constant 80 amp load being passed through the stud and both the current and voltage were continuously monitored for 1 hour.

    During the hour test, if either the voltage or the current dropped, even slowly, the test would have been terminated and the stud ruled out as a reliable earth point.

    While the 6B&S cable connecting to the stud was warm at the end of the test, the voltage and current remained constant and more importantly the area around the stud was still room temperature.

    This is sort of test that is needed to be done, to be able to establish a reliable and safe earth return in any vehicle where you can not find a decent chassis earth return.

  8. #48
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    Thank you Odysseyman and Drivesafe, I really appreciate the feedback. I’m confident that I will see a good earth with a clean connection at both ends of the chassis rail.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odysseyman View Post
    I connected the 6B&S earth cable to my Alko disc brake compressor in my camper to the earth point at the rear of the vehicle. So far no problem, the brakes work as they should, but I do know the ideal is to run it right back to the battery.

    David
    I have my d2 set up this way for a few years now with no problems encounted as yet.
    Rob

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