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Thread: Running 6b&s to rear anderson plug

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Have no idea how you could struggle running cable through a D4 by following the Traxide instructions :O the hardest part was trying not to lose those damn metal clips.

    Who on earth would cut out at 12.7V? lol That's the voltage of a 100% charged battery.
    I’m more than happy to keep my start battery at 100%, the added capacity for fridges and lights and inverter and everything else that seems to be the minimum still hasn’t tempted me these days, we get by quite well with on 100amp/hr battery while camping/touring ....

    I don’t own a D4 but from what I read you could get yourself into trouble pretty quick once your starter is at 12V and you start opening doors and waking the computers up??

    Either way traxide gear is good along with tims advice.....I used to run his isolator in my old defer

    I now run a simple redarc isolator in my defer and work cars.....never had any issues with charging it starts going flat.

    I’ve never been tempted to purchase a DC-DC or BC-DC.......although i am looking st lithium batteries

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    I’m more than happy to keep my start battery at 100%, the added capacity for fridges and lights and inverter and everything else that seems to be the minimum still hasn’t tempted me these days, we get by quite well with on 100amp/hr battery while camping/touring ....I don’t own a D4 but from what I read you could get yourself into trouble pretty quick once your starter is at 12V and you start opening doors and waking the computers up??
    Yep this is a major potential problem, more so with D4s but to a lesser degree, also with D3s. Continually going to the vehicle and causing the computers to wakeup so many times that the cranking battery is discharged to a level where it can not start the motor is a common problem


    The issue of ending up with a flat cranking battery while camping, is actually more likely if you do not have one of my systems fitted and even if you do end up with a flat cranking battery, the D4 can usually be started from the auxiliary battery because in this type of situation, my isolator has worked in reverse.


    From feedback from customers and first hand experience, D4s fitted with my systems are far less likely to suffer from a low cranking battery after a weekend away, for a number of reasons.


    The main reason is that weeks before you even go away, my system is working at keeping your cranking battery in a higher state of charge possible, than it would be in a D4 without one of my systems fitted.


    Right from when you first start your motor, with any other DBS or no DBS at all, 100% of the energy required to start your motor comes from your cranking battery. Which is how it normally is.


    With one of my systems fitted, because my isolators keep the batteries connected for up to days at a time, 25% or more, of the energy required to start your motor will come from the auxiliary battery.


    This one single advantage means that your engine is going to be easier to start, your cranking battery has not had to work as hard as it normally would thus helping to extend the cranking battery’s lifespan.


    But more importantly, because the cranking battery has not been discharged as low as it would need to be in a single battery setup, you will be able to replace the energy used while starting the motor, in a shorter drive time and now days, with many of these vehicles being used for lots short drives, this one feature/advantage, is helping to keep cranking batteries in a higher state of charge.


    While your are driving round town, because the D4 alternator has such a huge current capacity alternator, both batteries are easily charged, even during short drives.


    Now when you have finished driving for the day, we come to another feature/advantage of the way my systems work.


    Regardless of whether it has been short or long drives, when you turn off your motor, the auxiliary battery, an Optima D34 Yellowtop in 99% of D3 and D4 setups, will always be in a higher state of charge than your cranking battery.


    Shortly after you turn off your motor, because the batteries remain connected, and as the Optima is in a higher state of charge, the Optima S-L-O-W-L-Y back discharges into the cranking battery.


    This slow back discharge not only helps to keep the cranking battery in a higher state of charge, but over a period of time, usually just a few weeks, it will also bring the battery up to a much better condition. And this means the battery maintains a higher capacity.


    This all means that wth your battery being in a far better condition, you will actually replace the energy used while starting your motor, in an even shorter drive time.


    And all of this occurs before you even start your holiday trip. It also means that you can go to your D4 more times while stopped, before you flatten your cranking battery.


    But add to this, because the batteries are connected, you can access your D4 even more time before your cranking battery gets that low that it will not start your motor.


    No other system offers these benefits and reduces the risk of a flat cranking battery while camping, and most other systems are a lot dearer.


    Sorry for hijacking your thread Jeremy, but lots of people will be reading it and unfortunately you have been given some pretty woeful advice and others need to be able to see there are better ways to achieve what you are trying to do, with out the potential problems that can occur.


    I wish you the best and hope your system meets your needs.

  3. #33
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    As a keen electronics experimenter, I agree with everything that Tim (drivesafe) has said. I have no association with him, other than being on this forum. My personal setup is a D1 with two blue top optima batteries permanently connected in parallel. No dual battery isolator. I leave my fridge running in the car at all times, but I do have a 170W solar panel permanently mounted on the roof running through a real MPPT regulator. This suits my needs. If I had a more modern car or one without a solar panel, I would definitely only use one of Tim's isolators.

    Aaron

  4. #34
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    I've flattened my starter completely twice while installing accessories or polishing in the driveway, never while camping though (even though we've lived out of it for 6 weeks straight). It's pretty hard to do, you need to have the radio on for about 45 minutes straight, and there's a 20 minutes accessory timeout to prevent it getting to that point (at which i turned it back on). When camping you just throw everything in the boot, lock the doors and click unlock on the tailgate, leaving it slightly ajar. Will never have a problem camping if you do that.

    If you're doing remote, sole vehicle travel, you're going to be carrying a jump starter of some sort anyway, especially seeing as they come in forms no bigger than your hand now. And if you're not, there's always someone nearby who can jumpstart you (pretty hard to find a place without at least a few other vehicles).

    Benefits far outweigh the potential, likely never to happen negative.

    If you don't trust a battery to do its job, that is run through a cycle, you probably need a better battery. Reality is that quality batteries are just as likely to die without cycling as they are with, so you're doing nothing accept waste money on the extra AH you're going to need in auxiliary batteries.

  5. #35
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    Not sure if this helps, but my set up is as follows;

    Single main battery under bonnet (new battery in 2018), connected to an Intervolt smart isolator (solid state, programmable), 40amp in-line fuse, running 6b&s under the car, tucked up high in the chassis, this appears out the back next to the factory 7 pin connectors to a 50 amp Anderson plug, tucked in behind the tow cover, so when not towing it’s not visible. This plugs into the camper’s lead. The camper also connects to the factory 7 pin plug to run the lights etc. The 50 amp Anderson runs directly to the single 120A/h AGM battery in the camper and keeps this charged up when driving.

    The Intervolt only connects the campers AGM battery for charging when the alternator output is high enough (this is programable with the Intervolt). I.e. disconnected for starting the car, and disconnects when the campers battery reaches full charge. Through the battery management system in the camper, I run the 3 way fridge on 12v when driving, (as I understand it is illegal to run the fridge on gas when moving).

    The Intervolt means I don’t have to manually disconnect the car from the camper when stopped underway, and we keep the camper battery fully charged. I also have a Korr Lighting 200w folding solar panel, this plugs into the same Anderson plug of the camper to keep the battery topped up when camped. This has a MPPT controller and about 10m of cable.

    At the moment with this set up we can run about 5 days off the grid with the camper battery, (fridge on gas) and I maintain the cars main battery, and I can top up the camper battery with solar each and every day.

    No issues with this for the past 2 years.

    Cheers,

    Eric

  6. #36
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    The Intervolt looks good and well priced.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Once the redarc does isolate, the main battery I have drops faster than it does whilst connected(to the aux battery).,
    That is, the aux battery seems to be 'holding up' the condition of the main battery.
    Overnight, and then late next morning I notice the main is at about 12.4v, but the aux more like 12.5 - 12.6v
    Hi Arthur and sorry I missed this post.


    With your cranking battery settling back to 12.4v is actually quite good because it is commonplace to see 12.2v in many vehicles.


    12.4v puts your cranking battery at around 80% SoC and your auxiliary battery at well over 90% and again, these are pretty good readings.


    This chart will help with the State of Charge relating to battery voltage.


  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Yep this is a major potential problem, more so with D4s but to a lesser degree, also with D3s. Continually going to the vehicle and causing the computers to wakeup so many times that the cranking battery is discharged to a level where it can not start the motor is a common problem


    The issue of ending up with a flat cranking battery while camping, is actually more likely if you do not have one of my systems fitted and even if you do end up with a flat cranking battery, the D4 can usually be started from the auxiliary battery because in this type of situation, my isolator has worked in reverse.


    From feedback from customers and first hand experience, D4s fitted with my systems are far less likely to suffer from a low cranking battery after a weekend away, for a number of reasons.


    The main reason is that weeks before you even go away, my system is working at keeping your cranking battery in a higher state of charge possible, than it would be in a D4 without one of my systems fitted.


    Right from when you first start your motor, with any other DBS or no DBS at all, 100% of the energy required to start your motor comes from your cranking battery. Which is how it normally is.


    With one of my systems fitted, because my isolators keep the batteries connected for up to days at a time, 25% or more, of the energy required to start your motor will come from the auxiliary battery.


    This one single advantage means that your engine is going to be easier to start, your cranking battery has not had to work as hard as it normally would thus helping to extend the cranking battery’s lifespan.


    But more importantly, because the cranking battery has not been discharged as low as it would need to be in a single battery setup, you will be able to replace the energy used while starting the motor, in a shorter drive time and now days, with many of these vehicles being used for lots short drives, this one feature/advantage, is helping to keep cranking batteries in a higher state of charge.


    While your are driving round town, because the D4 alternator has such a huge current capacity alternator, both batteries are easily charged, even during short drives.


    Now when you have finished driving for the day, we come to another feature/advantage of the way my systems work.


    Regardless of whether it has been short or long drives, when you turn off your motor, the auxiliary battery, an Optima D34 Yellowtop in 99% of D3 and D4 setups, will always be in a higher state of charge than your cranking battery.


    Shortly after you turn off your motor, because the batteries remain connected, and as the Optima is in a higher state of charge, the Optima S-L-O-W-L-Y back discharges into the cranking battery.


    This slow back discharge not only helps to keep the cranking battery in a higher state of charge, but over a period of time, usually just a few weeks, it will also bring the battery up to a much better condition. And this means the battery maintains a higher capacity.


    This all means that wth your battery being in a far better condition, you will actually replace the energy used while starting your motor, in an even shorter drive time.


    And all of this occurs before you even start your holiday trip. It also means that you can go to your D4 more times while stopped, before you flatten your cranking battery.


    But add to this, because the batteries are connected, you can access your D4 even more time before your cranking battery gets that low that it will not start your motor.


    No other system offers these benefits and reduces the risk of a flat cranking battery while camping, and most other systems are a lot dearer.


    Sorry for hijacking your thread Jeremy, but lots of people will be reading it and unfortunately you have been given some pretty woeful advice and others need to be able to see there are better ways to achieve what you are trying to do, with out the potential problems that can occur.


    I wish you the best and hope your system meets your needs.
    Is there some "simple" way to stop this happening ?, maybe a big red switch which isolates the fuse responsible for the "waking up" procedure... This may sound
    a bit simplistic but "why the hell" does the car need to keep checking ?... this seems to be an achilles heel to the Landrovers... I've parked the car...I'm happy with it's "level"...so just
    let me get on with camping without being worried that the damn onboard computer is going to ruin my day !!!!!
    I appreciate the "solution" given re putting all your gear in the boot but I have gear spread throughout the car and that's the way I camp - I don't want to arrive at a campsite and have to pile everything in the boot just because my car likes to "wake-up" every time I open a door...!!!!
    I't times like this that I miss my old kombi... it may not have been able to get to the places my D3 can...BUT...when I turned the key off it stayed off !!!!
    rant over....
    cheers

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsalt View Post
    Is there some "simple" way to stop this happening ?, maybe a big red switch which isolates the fuse responsible for the "waking up" procedure... This may sound
    a bit simplistic but "why the hell" does the car need to keep checking ?... this seems to be an achilles heel to the Landrovers... I've parked the car...I'm happy with it's "level"...so just
    let me get on with camping without being worried that the damn onboard computer is going to ruin my day !!!!!
    I appreciate the "solution" given re putting all your gear in the boot but I have gear spread throughout the car and that's the way I camp - I don't want to arrive at a campsite and have to pile everything in the boot just because my car likes to "wake-up" every time I open a door...!!!!
    I't times like this that I miss my old kombi... it may not have been able to get to the places my D3 can...BUT...when I turned the key off it stayed off !!!!
    rant over....
    cheers
    I agree totally!
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  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsalt View Post
    Is there some "simple" way to stop this happening ?, maybe a big red switch which isolates the fuse responsible for the "waking up" procedure... This may sound
    a bit simplistic but "why the hell" does the car need to keep checking ?... this seems to be an achilles heel to the Landrovers... I've parked the car...I'm happy with it's "level"...so just
    let me get on with camping without being worried that the damn onboard computer is going to ruin my day !!!!!
    I appreciate the "solution" given re putting all your gear in the boot but I have gear spread throughout the car and that's the way I camp - I don't want to arrive at a campsite and have to pile everything in the boot just because my car likes to "wake-up" every time I open a door...!!!!
    I't times like this that I miss my old kombi... it may not have been able to get to the places my D3 can...BUT...when I turned the key off it stayed off !!!!
    rant over....
    cheers
    You obviously don’t have any children with you

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