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Well, I've just wasted a fair bit of time, trying to find out if my D3 had been fixed under recall. A dealer, North of Brissie, told me it wasn't subject to recall, but wouldn't look at the ACCC site that I was on, that stated it was subject.
In a fraction of the time spent with the Northern mob, Southport Land Rover has supplied me evidence of the repair and date thereof. (Which means I'll be out of pocket[bigsad])
Part number is LR018673
If I'm reading this correctly, you'll already have the updated part (LR018673) if so, suck it (booster) and see, it takes quite a while to accumulate, and as long as it hasn't destroyed the diaphragm, it may last a few years yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saitch
It's worth changing the one-way/check valve every few years as they fail in the recall pipework.
If you have to change the booster change to the RRS version for extra boost. A simple change over and not overly expensive part if you hunt around.
Ewe, not something I’d do. I think the boost level on the car is perfect. I have a Golf GTi with such a sensitive pedal, it take so long to adjust to.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Each to their own I suppose.
I always felt the non dust Akebono pads lost some of the original bite so this brought it back up again. Also now have SS flex brake lines which assist as well. Definitely not over sensitive just more oooompff when you want it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster;[emoji639
Sooo, on the weekend I was reversing a trailer down a boat ramp and got the hard pedal in reverse was quite a shock as ramp was steep and short and not wanting to stop without massive pressure on pedal.
Back to normal city driving and all good again but testing in a car park after a few short stabs of the brake in reverse hard pedal again.
I can sort of remember on last offroad trip getting a hard pedal going down a steep incline as well that was a bit scary. A few stabs and boost was lost. In city driving boost is good on first press.
So today I pulled the vacuum line off the booster and was able to suck out a small amount of oil.
Booster was new RRS spec replaced in 2022 has done about 80 k kms. I have the updated vacuum pipe work.
The previous booster at 14 years old failed to point there was no boost whatsoever but I didn’t notice this hard pedal previously.
In our 1991 80 series LC the brakes failed in the sense the pedal went slowly to floor. Not good when holding on a hill at the lights. Another stab would grab the brakes again. That was solved with a $50 master cylinder kit to replace the rubber cup seals on pistons that grab the fluid.
I’ll see in next few days if booster can hold pressure on multiple stabs with oil removed.
Test your car in a car park by applying a few quick stabs and see if you loose boost assistance by the third press. It may also be a failing vacuum pump potentially.
I’ve had brake loss at the end of a big decline. I’m used to no assist. One of our cars has no assist at all. 2 hands on the wheel and both feet on the pedal kinda stuff. My encounter was like trying to push a pedal into a steel block (click click ****ing click). My gut says I bottomed out the master. So I wonder if mine is a combo of buggered booster and master. I’ve pulled plenty of oil out of the booster twice. Thinking I might fit a new master, booster and electric vacuum pump. No oil to bypass the check valves that way.
The rock hard pressing steel is run out of boost which to be fair all cars do if you continually pump the pedal but on a 4wd it’s hard to use engine braking when reversing a boat and trailer down the boat ramp.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Maybe it’s just a natural quirk. When our last booster failed it when to full time pressing steel feeling.