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Thread: Hard brake pedal in reverse

  1. #21
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    Well, I've just wasted a fair bit of time, trying to find out if my D3 had been fixed under recall. A dealer, North of Brissie, told me it wasn't subject to recall, but wouldn't look at the ACCC site that I was on, that stated it was subject.

    In a fraction of the time spent with the Northern mob, Southport Land Rover has supplied me evidence of the repair and date thereof. (Which means I'll be out of pocket)
    'sit bonum tempora volvunt'


  2. #22
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Part number is LR018673
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saitch View Post
    Well, I've just wasted a fair bit of time, trying to find out if my D3 had been fixed under recall. A dealer, North of Brissie, told me it wasn't subject to recall, but wouldn't look at the ACCC site that I was on, that stated it was subject.

    In a fraction of the time spent with the Northern mob, Southport Land Rover has supplied me evidence of the repair and date thereof. (Which means I'll be out of pocket)
    If I'm reading this correctly, you'll already have the updated part (LR018673) if so, suck it (booster) and see, it takes quite a while to accumulate, and as long as it hasn't destroyed the diaphragm, it may last a few years yet.

  4. #24
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    It's worth changing the one-way/check valve every few years as they fail in the recall pipework.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  5. #25
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    If you have to change the booster change to the RRS version for extra boost. A simple change over and not overly expensive part if you hunt around.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    If you have to change the booster change to the RRS version for extra boost. A simple change over and not overly expensive part if you hunt around.
    Ewe, not something I’d do. I think the boost level on the car is perfect. I have a Golf GTi with such a sensitive pedal, it take so long to adjust to.

    Each to their own I suppose.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster;[emoji639
    Hard brake pedal in reverse[emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse][emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse][emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse][emoji[emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse]Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse][emoji[emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse]Hard brake pedal in reverse[emoji6Hard brake pedal in reverseHard brake pedal in reverse]]]Ewe, not something I’d do. I think the boost level on the car is perfect. I have a Golf GTi with such a sensitive pedal, it take so long to adjust to.

    Each to their own I suppose.
    I always felt the non dust Akebono pads lost some of the original bite so this brought it back up again. Also now have SS flex brake lines which assist as well. Definitely not over sensitive just more oooompff when you want it.

  8. #28
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    Hard brake pedal in reverse

    Sooo, on the weekend I was reversing a trailer down a boat ramp and got the hard pedal in reverse was quite a shock as ramp was steep and short and not wanting to stop without massive pressure on pedal.

    Back to normal city driving and all good again but testing in a car park after a few short stabs of the brake in reverse hard pedal again.

    I can sort of remember on last offroad trip getting a hard pedal going down a steep incline as well that was a bit scary. A few stabs and boost was lost. In city driving boost is good on first press.

    So today I pulled the vacuum line off the booster and was able to suck out a small amount of oil.

    Booster was new RRS spec replaced in 2022 has done about 80 k kms. I have the updated vacuum pipe work.

    The previous booster at 14 years old failed to point there was no boost whatsoever but I didn’t notice this hard pedal previously.

    In our 1991 80 series LC the brakes failed in the sense the pedal went slowly to floor. Not good when holding on a hill at the lights. Another stab would grab the brakes again. That was solved with a $50 master cylinder kit to replace the rubber cup seals on pistons that grab the fluid.

    I’ll see in next few days if booster can hold pressure on multiple stabs with oil removed.

    Test your car in a car park by applying a few quick stabs and see if you loose boost assistance by the third press. It may also be a failing vacuum pump potentially.

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