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Thread: Engine failure reasons TDV6 2.7

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    There's consistent failures in the UK being reported with warped blocks. Some were even cracked, there's a lot of mechanics who believe this is what causes the shells to spin, which results in the crank failure.

    All hearsay really, unless Land Rover admit to a cause, which they never will. It's just as likely for a 3.0l to fail as it is a 2.7l though. Will be interesting to see how many 3.0l D5's fail.
    A lot of power out of a small block is a clue. Think 20-30 years ago what power a 253, 308, 351 engine was producing in stock form. Smaller 4cyl engines in race cars producing high power good maybe for 20-50 hours before rebuild based on an oil change each event.
    Add nitro to an engine and what’s the result?
    Spitfire Merlin engines had a boost button for emergency that the engine could sustain for only a matter of minutes.
    I had two stroke race motor bikes with heaps of grunt but you popped a new piston in them after 20 hours or risked catastrophe.
    Doesn’t make me feel any happier though but I’m sort of not surprised.

  2. #12
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    The OP said the engine had crap in the sump - possibly bearings and if he looks closer will possibly have a cracked or broken crank.

    Not likely to be a result of cracked coolant system coolant outlet - yes the bearings could over heat but engine would most likely sieze first - with associated alarms on the dash.

    If the oil pump housing had failed, this kills the heads/valves etc and has no impact on the bottom end - oil pressure still remains for a while at least long enough for the valves to crash with pistons and kill the engine from the top end.

    Too me it is a crank/bigend issue - though the oil filter could have been fitted incorrectly and starved the engine - on the evidence presented definitely not a split coolant housing or a cracked timing belt mount on the oil pump.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
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    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
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  3. #13
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    All plastics brittle

    This 195k engine's plastic components were all brittle. I tried to use plastics from the 85k territory motor. If your D3 is 500k long in the teeth, as the name of the Bon Jovi song, living on a prayer.
    Bob

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banjo Bob View Post
    This 195k engine's plastic components were all brittle. I tried to use plastics from the 85k territory motor. If your D3 is 500k long in the teeth, as the name of the Bon Jovi song, living on a prayer.
    Bob
    I am very conscious of this issue as cars like BMWs have ongoing plastic crack coolant leaks as they age.

    To be honest though, other than the thermostat part I have not heard of other leaks other than cooling hoses damaged. The thermostat changed <7 years seems to be the solution.

    The ultimate proactive repair maybe would be to change the radiator and all hoses at 10 to 15 years age of car.

  5. #15
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    The ultimate proactive repair maybe would be to change the radiator and all hoses at 10 to 15 years age of car.[/QUOTE]


    Better include the bottom connecting Tube,also plastic LR013165 LR013165 | COOLING SYSTEM LOWER CONNECTING TUBE - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 - RANGE ROVER VOGUE + SPORT 2013 ON | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddy View Post
    The ultimate proactive repair maybe would be to change the radiator and all hoses at 10 to 15 years age of car.


    Better include the bottom connecting Tube,also plastic LR013165 LR013165 | COOLING SYSTEM LOWER CONNECTING TUBE - 3.0L DIESEL - DISCOVERY 4 - RANGE ROVER VOGUE + SPORT 2013 ON | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd
    I thought about that one when I done all my cooling hoses earlier this year. Looks like an absolute bastard to get to. A job to add to the list if the body ever needs to come off I think
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  7. #17
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    Yes plastic and rubber will go brittle after about 15 years. I've just replace the last of the oil lines to rocker covers in a 2004 vehicle. They were rotten hard. Plastic on the lash adjusters was falling apart also. Even still, all this work can be carried out for less than the cost of 2 years depreciation on a new model.

  8. #18
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    Heater cores is another common (on all engines) and important one. Relatively cheap replace too, especially if you're not afraid to diy dash removal, but at 12-15 years old i'd be swapping it out when the radiator is done.

    Actually i think i've had these rot out before the radiator on other vehicles...

  9. #19
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    Just some info....
    A blatant plug to my work FB page, but if you look at the last pics you will see what I see on most 2.7lt failures I pull down.
    LAND ROVER - Re-power your Land Rover... - Aztech 4x4 Mechanical | Facebook
    Regards
    Daz


  10. #20
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    Just some info....
    A blatant plug to my work FB page, but if you look at the last pics you will see what I see on most 2.7lt failures I pull down.
    LAND ROVER - Re-power your Land Rover... - Aztech 4x4 Mechanical | Facebook
    Those big end pics make me want to vomit. I've always wondered about the feasibility of a bottom end re-build on the TDV6.

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