Yeah EPB is working fine. Recently serviced it. Just did a hard reset to see if that'd do anything. Still nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
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Yeah EPB is working fine. Recently serviced it. Just did a hard reset to see if that'd do anything. Still nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Might be a silly question, I know you changed the brake switch, but have you checked it is working correctly?
Also check the plugs for the steering harness, other forums have mentioned they can be troublesome. After replacing the clock spring, harness and switches I feel like a speed sensor or something else dependant is stopping cc from engaging?
Not even my car and this is annoying me lol
Have you detected any consistent conditions or times for CC to cancel? Is there any difference in persistence between slow (eg 40 kph) and faster speeds, uphill or downhill, lower or higher engine revs?
Several years ago I attempted to find the reason why a TDV6 D3 stalled when trying to take-off in reverse unless very gently on an easy surface. With the limited time available I could only assume that there was a break in wire in an engine harness that moved when the engine rotated under load in reverse, as seen with the bonnet up. Unfortunately we didn't have time to determine which harness so the D3 had to be snatched backwards if it stopped part-way up a sand-hill.
Not a silly question - I have brake lights and no error codes so I assume so. Is there any other way?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickyg
You're telling me - I've been battling with it for 8 months.
Sounds brutal Graeme. It doesn't engage at all to comment on such things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
I had it for one glorious drive once to Armidale and there was nothing special I can think of that would have had it going that trip and no others.
IIRC the brake lights must illuminate when the pedal is depressed between 5 and 8 mm. There is a procedure to adjust the pedal position but I can't currently find it.
The speed control system also uses inputs from the brake pedal switch, the APP sensor, the ECM and the ABS ECU.
You've tried all the obvious, it really needs the codes checked
An icarsoft should be able to atleast check and reset codes yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickyg
I don't have gap kind of money.
I have an elcheapo ELM327 it reads engine and transmission codes ok and can reset them, but there is like 18 computers/systems and I think you'll need something a bit more comprehensive than that. I think there was a page with members who have diagnostic tools and their rough location but how up to date it is I don't know.
I'm using the car scanner app with my $15 ebay job.
Gap IId or Rovacom VCIQ are both good and around 650-450 respectively. Before i bought my Rovacom VCIQ i used the "C reader V" off ebay that was about 60 bucks that could read all 21 ecus, but only clear the basic level codes. Good enough to get out of trouble and or be able to diagnose issues.
Also, anyone with say a Foxwell code reader should be able to help out. A mate looks after BMW's and is able read most other car makes too