Thread: Chemical intake clean, who's done one / opinions? 2010 D4 2.7L

I ordered the outlet together with the top hose from Rimmer Bros, was about $45 delivered from memory.

Did not order new thermostat or bolts, not required in my view.

Drain all coolant from bottle, disconnect lower radiator hose and coolant outlet from trans cooler and allow to drain.

Replace coolant outlet and hose

Reconnect everything

Fill with demineralised water, run engine at idle to flush.

Drain again, reconnect and fill with correct concentration of coolant. Run engine starting at idle and up to 2000rpm once coolant is pumped through and open bleeder at engine outlet and and bottle, allowing trapped air to escape, take care as coolant gets very hot. I didn't remove the bleeder, just cracked it enough. Top up coolant bottle as level drops until at hot line (below cold line) and no more air escapes.

Turn off car and let it cool, then top coolant off to cold line if required. Check coolant outlet bolts for leaks.

Bolt torque on coolant outlet I set mine to 12Nm.

Hope this helps.

Eric

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Roger that, I thought they were the same, sorry. I believe the coolant change processs still the same though.

I know they are known to break / leak on the 2.7D (seem to have more pipe connections) and destroy engines. Have not heard of the same for 3.0 yet but in reality those motors are only coming up to the plastic failure age.

Still trying to work out where the other single outlet lives. Suspect it will be where top hose enters block on 2.7D different to 3.0D.

I’m thinking it may also be smarter to replace the entire thermostat part and another source of plastic cracking.

And replace coolant.