Thanks for the tips Eric, I'll try find some time this weekend to check your suggestions. I'd love to get four audio recording devices one for each corner to help triangulate
Printable View
Thanks for the tips Eric, I'll try find some time this weekend to check your suggestions. I'd love to get four audio recording devices one for each corner to help triangulate
Although I wouldn't think that resting your foot on the brake would affect this, but.... check the link/rod (approx 250mm long) which connects the UCA to the stabiliser bar. Mine had been tightened at the UCA by some peanut who didn't ensure that it was "central" so the bottom ball joint on this link rod could move around and do its job assume different positions according to the movement of the stabiliser. It was causing an annoying clonk/click noise.
Hope I have made myself clear.
I am not familiar with your set up but some calipers have one half bolted to the stub axle and the other slides on pins or bolts ( this has nothing to do with holding the pads ) , these pins wear or the moly grease coating them goes away . remove the pins coat with moly and re fit , rattle goes away . I have found this on many types of cars .
Far left of field thought from me. I once had an undetermined, single metallic clunk over speed humps or potholes at specific speedsQuote:
Originally Posted by BushDisco
and rate of acceleration or braking. Turned out to be a degraded engine mount causing the exhaust pipe to hit part of the underbody
as the engine block torqued up slightly on its mounts... have you checked the mounts?
—Geoff.
I had similar matter and tried the dickens to get rid of it. In the end it came time to renew the brake pads and on this occasion I went back to original parts rather than OEM - problem gone straight away. Ques have you ever put in non original brake pads?Quote:
Originally Posted by BushDisco
Regards
Botto
Thanks all for your continued suggestions. The good news is the issue seems to be getting worse with the noise now occurring during normal driving just for rough spots in a road or minor surface transitions.
I also notice what I can only describe as a looseness of suspension components through the steering wheel on going over more minor bumps such as into a driveway.
I've borrowed a gopro camera which I intend to attach to the undercarriage tonight so I can film the upper control arms. If that's not the issue I'll try other components and report back.
I head bush next Wednesday and would at least like to know if I'm likely to suffer major component failure during the trip...
I had the same issue with my Perentie (110). Ended up being a worn shocker fixing hole in the top of each front top hat. Rubber bushes were gone at this location as well. I replaced the top hats and associated bushes and all good now. Cheers, BrianQuote:
Originally Posted by BushDisco
If you still suspect the shockers or shock mounts, you could try simply swapping them over, right to left.
At the very least, it will give you an opportunity to take a close look at the parts involved, and at best, the noise may follow a dud shocker to the other side.
Thanks fast Freddie, how much work is involved in removing and installing the front shock/ air spring assemblies?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Freddie
I've experienced this exact same rattling problem on my Classic RR and the noise drove me nuts when on the dirt. Several workshops attempted to find and fix the problem with various parts replaced along the way but all to no avail.
Eventually a switched on mechanic who could think outside the square found the problem. It was simple. The brake pads themselves had come unstuck from their steel backing plate and were moving around. Problem solved.