Thread: Metallic rattle from front end on potholes or corrugations

Although I wouldn't think that resting your foot on the brake would affect this, but.... check the link/rod (approx 250mm long) which connects the UCA to the stabiliser bar. Mine had been tightened at the UCA by some peanut who didn't ensure that it was "central" so the bottom ball joint on this link rod could move around and do its job assume different positions according to the movement of the stabiliser. It was causing an annoying clonk/click noise.
Hope I have made myself clear.

I am not familiar with your set up but some calipers have one half bolted to the stub axle and the other slides on pins or bolts ( this has nothing to do with holding the pads ) , these pins wear or the moly grease coating them goes away . remove the pins coat with moly and re fit , rattle goes away . I have found this on many types of cars .

Originally Posted by BushDisco

Hi all, seeking the combined wisdom and experience of this esteemed group. Yes, before anyone asks I have performed dozens of searches, on this forum and many others...

Simon

Far left of field thought from me. I once had an undetermined, single metallic clunk over speed humps or potholes at specific speeds
and rate of acceleration or braking. Turned out to be a degraded engine mount causing the exhaust pipe to hit part of the underbody
as the engine block torqued up slightly on its mounts... have you checked the mounts?

—Geoff.

Originally Posted by BushDisco

Possibly, the bolts holding the pads are tight but I don't have a tool to check the tension of the bolts holding calipers to chassis.

I had similar matter and tried the dickens to get rid of it. In the end it came time to renew the brake pads and on this occasion I went back to original parts rather than OEM - problem gone straight away. Ques have you ever put in non original brake pads?
Regards
Botto

Thanks all for your continued suggestions. The good news is the issue seems to be getting worse with the noise now occurring during normal driving just for rough spots in a road or minor surface transitions.

I also notice what I can only describe as a looseness of suspension components through the steering wheel on going over more minor bumps such as into a driveway.

I've borrowed a gopro camera which I intend to attach to the undercarriage tonight so I can film the upper control arms. If that's not the issue I'll try other components and report back.

I head bush next Wednesday and would at least like to know if I'm likely to suffer major component failure during the trip...

Originally Posted by BushDisco

Possibly, the bolts holding the pads are tight but I don't have a tool to check the tension of the bolts holding calipers to chassis.

I had the same issue with my Perentie (110). Ended up being a worn shocker fixing hole in the top of each front top hat. Rubber bushes were gone at this location as well. I replaced the top hats and associated bushes and all good now. Cheers, Brian

If you still suspect the shockers or shock mounts, you could try simply swapping them over, right to left.
At the very least, it will give you an opportunity to take a close look at the parts involved, and at best, the noise may follow a dud shocker to the other side.

Originally Posted by Fast Freddie

If you still suspect the shockers or shock mounts, you could try simply swapping them over, right to left.
At the very least, it will give you an opportunity to take a close look at the parts involved, and at best, the noise may follow a dud shocker to the other side.

Thanks fast Freddie, how much work is involved in removing and installing the front shock/ air spring assemblies?