Better off changing the compressor.
A lot of work to change the valve only to find it is the compressor afterwards,although you could be lucky.
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I changed the valve for only a minor improvement. Still haven’t got around to getting a new compressor
thanks id found the valves and wondered if my measurements might rule in or out a valve and or compressor.
My layman view is that the compressor was commanded with the current representing the “position” of the command valve, yet no increase in pressure from baseline. I’d expect to see 1100 kpa when on. Also your evap temps don’t change. Definitely looks like a stuck valve, stuffed compressor.
Your baseline pressure is the same as mine ~116psi/750kpa.
I managed a capture on mine when it was blowing hot air once. Exactly the same output as yours. Everything commanded but no change. I switched the AC switch on and off, waited 5 seconds, turned it back on and then saw the pressure increase and evap temps drop. Eg flaky compressor.
BradC is your man for AC advice.
thanks, looking into compressor options now.
here is several posts about the gap tool readouts too starting here D4 A/C Compressor issue
This is the valve and where I purchased it from.
ELECTRONIC CONTROL VALVE FOR SANDEN PXC16, CVC14, CVC16 COMPRESSORS
EX 032
You reckon?
Some of the easiest vehicles to maintain I've ever worked on.
The AC in the RRS went on the blink. I got the valve, got a set of extended circlip pliers.
Front wheel off, valve out (degassed before hand of course), new valve in, circlip back in, plug on.
Quick drive to mates workshop - Gassed up...
Chilled air [biggrin]
Try working on some of the other modern stuff - the LR is much easier in most cases.