Hi Guys,
I have a 2013 D4 with 70k on the clock, relatively low and I am now having to replace the A/C Compressor. I feel this is a bit premature for a vehicle of this standard. Just wondered if any one else has had the same issue. Would appreciate feedback.
Cheers,
samandfee
2013 D4 .Llamms. Traxide. ARB C/C Bullbar.Outback Acc RWC & Longrange tank.
ops,mistake
Paul
D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.
'56 S1,been in the family since...'56
Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run
Hi Brad
had a 400km round trip up the coast on the weekend just passed, hot air all the way up and back.
Nearly cooked the poor dog as well as me and the minister of war and finance.
RAC did an A/C service for $200 as I am a member I thinks that sounds OK….thought that was a good idea at the time, gave me back the car ….More Hot air.....took it back and they sent it to an A/C specialist...( could have been Fred Flinstone for all I know)
He determined it was the compressor Kapuut……...RAC said that will be an extra $160 thanks ….No way Hose said I...…...they took that on board reluctantly.
Back to an Aulro forum recommended LR people in Perth ( other than stealership) .....Their A/C guys think the same...…..So compressor it is then.
And here I am
2013 D4 .Llamms. Traxide. ARB C/C Bullbar.Outback Acc RWC & Longrange tank.
OOOOPs
Posted without looking at previous …….being dumb again......Doooooooh.
2013 D4 .Llamms. Traxide. ARB C/C Bullbar.Outback Acc RWC & Longrange tank.
If you search for the ac valve issue it may be what’s going. It’s an expensive fix still as there is a lot of labour involved in accessing it. From memory it’s a $600-800 job versus a $2000 job that was replacing compressor. I had my valve done about a year ago and has run flawless since. Need to do your own homework first to see if that is what is wrong in your case though. I’d find a LR independent workshop that also does a/c work.
90% valve that is within the compressor however LR won’t replace only the valve as they only part swap the entire compressor. AC shops will swap the valve alone but want around $800 as previously stated.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
A lot of generalisations in this post.
"Generally" an issue with the valve will start to cool within 10's of kilometers or if you really thrash it (lots of revs and vibration). You did 400km and it didn't cool, so that's probably not a good indicator for your car.
I've never seen a mechanic who does AC diagnose a faulty valve. They "generally" just replace the compressor.
*I've* never seen a completely stuck valve. If you are handy with a spanner, get the covers off on a hot(ish) day, set the thermostat as low as it will go and give the valve a couple of whacks with something heavy. See if it's an American valve (ie it responds to violence).
If you can unstick it and get plausibly workable cooling then you might get away with just a valve. "Generally" if its the compressor then the failing compressor will have spread aluminium dust through the system requiring extensive remediation in addition to a new compressor. You can tell when the valve comes out. If it's clean then you're ok. If it has a silvery sludge on it then it's pineapple time.
Most AC mechanics will put a gauge set on the car, run it up and look at the pressures. In the old days, a high low-side reading, and a low high-side reading just said "your compressor is dead", but these days with variable-displacement compressors it ain't necessarily so.
On the flip side, a variable displacement compressor is *always* circulating refrigerant. This stops the seals drying out (unless you are low on gas in which case your lubricant winds up in the evaporator and you lunch the compressor). So on the whole the newer compressors are more reliable. The displacement valve seems to be a real problem on all of them though. The yanks are up to speed on this. The last 3 valves I've bought have been from Amazon US.
Aussie tradies seem to be behind the curve and just replace compressors. Maybe there's more margin on a compressor.
I first learned about this stuff a few years ago when my wifes Golf developed "the delay". I got quoted a compressor, condenser, dryer, TXV and a very expensive hose/evaporator flush (just north of $2k). A $35 valve from Amazon US and a couple of hours in the driveway and it was sorted.
So... are you handy with a spanner?
True Brad. I did very much generalise.
My old Golf that is now my mum's supposedly has the "black death" which is supposedly common within the Audi/VW fleet. It also take a long time to start cooling but eventually does, but poorly. In fact my own 2007 Audi also does this.
What are your thoughts on that issue? She was quoted an entire system replacement to resolve it as you stated, however I've also seen online people posting that despite being diagnosed with the plague, replacing the valve resolved it?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
As per the other AC thread, for those interested, geoffx19 found this related to the valve and its replacement
https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb...5/LTB00693NAS1
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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