Thread: ZF 6HP automatic transmission metal sump pan - torque specs?

As you will need to use a 1/4 drive or something similar in the same small size, just as tight as you can get it. You wont be able to over do it.
pay particular attention to all the rear ones as this is where I have seen them leak.

Another note, if you look through some old posts you will see somewhere I have recommended a steel pan with a alloy/rubber gasket that wont ever leak.

Check out the Sonnax website, their detailed descriptions provide torque settings for the pan to housing as well as valve body bolts etc. Pan is 14Nm from memory. I used a 1/4 drive torque wrench rated from 5-25Nm (Teng tools). Got to all of them, the front ones are a hassle but doable.

No leaks if done this way and using Duraprene gasket.

I rarely ever use a torque wrench. I must just be completely evil? I find selecting the correct sized 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 tool for the job ensures the correct torque is applied by hand. I find hands are a great indicator of tension. Internal to engines etc I always use torque and angle gauges as appropriate, but ancillaries I don’t bother. Some exceptions obviously

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Check out the Sonnax website, their detailed descriptions provide torque settings for the pan to housing as well as valve body bolts etc.

Should be listed in the Tech Resources section on Sonnax ZF ZF6HP26 Transmission

You cannot get a torque wrench into the front bolts any way - as mentioned just use a 1/4" drive and do it by feel - the real issue is getting to those front bolts - not if they are torqued exactly right.

Originally Posted by garrycol

You cannot get a torque wrench into the front bolts any way

Yet, I managed to get my small 3/8" torque wrench onto them just fine...

L320 vs L319... Try and get at the front bolts in an L320 and you'll know what Garry is talking about. Unless you start drilling big holes in the crossmember...

Originally Posted by DiscoClax

L320 vs L319... Try and get at the front bolts in an L320 and you'll know what Garry is talking about. Unless you start drilling big holes in the crossmember...

I didn't realise they were different at the front . I thought they were the same forward of the rear gearbox cross member and then aft of that, things were different due to the shorter wheel base (that is why the L320 is technically better offroad with the same tyres than the L319)

Well, well you learn something new every day - but yes if I have to do this job again (to change the filter) I will drill some holes in the front cross member - it already has enough holes in it as built and why they did not align all of them with the bolts is beyond me but some are close enough.