Thread: Oil Leak 3.0L D4 - Oil cooler and filter assembly -should it have a hole here!

Originally Posted by Graeme

The gasket looks to be cooked so even if it wasn't leaking, I suspect that it would soon start.

Hey Graeme. Yes, it was weird, and only on the coolant section, not the oil sections of the cooler gasket. I am actually happy it's replaced.

Procedure - sorry no photos.

1. Remove top intercooler hose
2. Remove intake bend that attaches to Y-piece/throttle body
3. Remove throttle body
4. Remove top radiator hose element that connect to the poorly titled "thermostat housing".
5. Remove water outlet/"thermostat housing"
6. Remove oil/air separator at rear of engine. Very difficult to remove as the clip that hold it in place breaks sadly - tight on seals
7. Remove oil filter and put to one side
8. Remove right hand glow plug cable assembly
9. Move left hand glow plug out of the way (rear one can't be accessed so you're kind of making room
10. Remove front right hand glow plug - you'll want the clearance to avoid damaging it I felt. Mine was easy to remove.
11. You will now need to unbolt the cooler, 6 10mm bolts - v will now flood with oil and water
12. This is the time you will find you will spend 30 minutes working out how to ease it up/forward/ around to clear the fuel pump casing at the rear
13. Now you need to start planning how much of the left hand intake manifold you will need to cut off to get it out. You take it out between the two intakes of the manifolds - it can't come out upwards.
14. small cut by small cut you'll get just enough to reef it out.
15. Cover oil galleries as fast as you can to avoid further issues. Endless coolant will be escaping. Mop it up.
16. Replace cooler in reverse.
17. Aside from the cutting bit, the assembly is the complete reverse.

I just did that from memory - it's probably accurate and reflects my approach.

• You will lose around 2-3L of coolant in the process.
• You will need to fully bleed and add back the missing coolant.
• I highly recommend doing an oil change at the same time. This is because you will inevitably get coolant down the main feed line into the bearings and possibly into the drains.
• I would also change the seals in the block that seal the oil/air separator (2 x133706. ) They will likely be tough by now. You lever them out (with some difficulty).
• You are supposed to also change the seals on the throttle body and "thermostat housing"/water outlet, but some get away without doing this.
• Oil cooler comes with the new o-rings installed, plus an oil filter.

Thanks DJ

So my read of this is to do this preventative repair circa 250,000km on 2.7 or 3.0 engines.

It’s similar to preventatively replacing the alternator pre 170,000km

Thanks for the post DJ. About to join you replacing mine VIA the crew at Ritta LD as I am a wowzer Only 297000 on my new D3 so I think its a bit of a sook as my last D3 was well past that and no oil drops at all

RE Replacement as Preventative maintenance- I do not think that would be necessary as the leak which started last week is noticeable but not impacting on the oil level after two weeks.

The nice gents (and lady) at Ritta did mention it is not uncommon so your detailed help may be well used.

Great how to summary, will be putting it into practice over the next few days.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Procedure - sorry no photos.

1. Remove top intercooler hose
2. Remove intake bend that attaches to Y-piece/throttle body
3. Remove throttle body
4. Remove top radiator hose element that connect to the poorly titled "thermostat housing".
5. Remove water outlet/"thermostat housing"
6. Remove oil/air separator at rear of engine. Very difficult to remove as the clip that hold it in place breaks sadly - tight on seals
7. Remove oil filter and put to one side
8. Remove right hand glow plug cable assembly
9. Move left hand glow plug out of the way (rear one can't be accessed so you're kind of making room
10. Remove front right hand glow plug - you'll want the clearance to avoid damaging it I felt. Mine was easy to remove.
11. You will now need to unbolt the cooler, 6 10mm bolts - v will now flood with oil and water
12. This is the time you will find you will spend 30 minutes working out how to ease it up/forward/ around to clear the fuel pump casing at the rear
13. Now you need to start planning how much of the left hand intake manifold you will need to cut off to get it out. You take it out between the two intakes of the manifolds - it can't come out upwards.
14. small cut by small cut you'll get just enough to reef it out.
15. Cover oil galleries as fast as you can to avoid further issues. Endless coolant will be escaping. Mop it up.
16. Replace cooler in reverse.
17. Aside from the cutting bit, the assembly is the complete reverse.

I just did that from memory - it's probably accurate and reflects my approach.

• You will lose around 2-3L of coolant in the process.
• You will need to fully bleed and add back the missing coolant.
• I highly recommend doing an oil change at the same time. This is because you will inevitably get coolant down the main feed line into the bearings and possibly into the drains.
• I would also change the seals in the block that seal the oil/air separator (2 x133706. ) They will likely be tough by now. You lever them out (with some difficulty).
• You are supposed to also change the seals on the throttle body and "thermostat housing"/water outlet, but some get away without doing this.
• Oil cooler comes with the new o-rings installed, plus an oil filter.

I just checked and the references to left and right relate to the view from the drivers seat as it should be, so when I say “left hand manifold”, it’ll be on your right as you look at the engine bay. Just thought I’d add that as I didn’t mention that in the guide.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I just checked and the references to left and right relate to the view from the drivers seat as it should be, so when I say “left hand manifold”, it’ll be on your right as you look at the engine bay. Just thought I’d add that as I didn’t mention that in the guide.

Thanks DJ was wondering about that orientation. Sounds like a pita job.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I just checked and the references to left and right relate to the view from the drivers seat as it should be, so when I say “left hand manifold”, it’ll be on your right as you look at the engine bay. Just thought I’d add that as I didn’t mention that in the guide.

You didn’t have to disconnect and remove the main harness loom connections and coolant pipe across the back of the engine to get better access space?