My money would be on the lowest km car, ive always bought cars that way and normally works out ok.
having said that though, the higher km car has (most likely) had timing, fuel and accessory belts replaced, plus you mentioned LCA’s, all of which would be due on the lower km car.
gearbox is adaptive, but it should not take very long for it to learn and relearn (mine is like Jekyl and Hyde when tootling around compared to “drive it like you stole it”) The lower km car may need a transmission fluid flush, and if not remapped, this can always be done, at least then you know what mapping you’ve got.
have you been able to download codes from both cars? The lower km car may also have stored error codes.
if it’s going to be a long termer, the initial higher purchase price will not make much difference in the end. I hope for you the lower km car price is still negotiable. Plus the brake controller and BMS is an advantage for camping trips.
lastly, for my MY11 SDV6SE remap, the ecu had to come out as well.
I've spoken to a number of mechanics/engine builders who will tell you a car that is driven sedately from new will result in an engine that is more sluggish and less economical than one that is driven harder from new. Also lots of short trips is nowhere near as good for a Diesel engine as longer trips. I'd reckon the Pilbara one has been driven longer and harder from new and the higher km would attest to that. Coupled with transmission could be all the difference?
Having said that I'm thinking through the same things as you (although not up to the buying stage yet) and I'm planning on as few km as possible too which has been suggested by a number of helpful people here
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