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Thread: New Oil Pump

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelvo View Post
    Despite the negative reply’s so far I think it’s a good idea to fit the uprated pump at cambelt change time.
    Any increase in oil pressure has to be good.
    Why? If the current pump does the job with no reported failures why do you need to change it and possibly bringing in issues elsewhere in the system.

    A solution looking for a problem that is not there.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Why? If the current pump does the job with no reported failures why do you need to change it and possibly bringing in issues elsewhere in the system.

    A solution looking for a problem that is not there.
    I can’t believe you are unaware of all the spun main bearings and snapping cranks happening to the V6 Diesel engines worldwide.

    While a 100% known reason for the failures has not been established, at least not been made public, low oil pressure is not going to be a good thing for any engine.

    If the information on the uprated pump website is correct, should you rather have the engine oil pressure at 1.8 bar or 4.0 bar?

    I know I’d want 4.0 bar.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    I think there are enough reports of them failing shortly are belt change even from LR workshops so for the $182 for the upgraded pump its not worth the risk.
    I agree - my indies will not change cam belts on engines with the old oil pumps unless they upgraded to the new version. I think most of the Indies that post on this forum are the same. People can put their head in the sand if they want.

    Also why did Ford not continue with the older pumps if they were OK? They brought in the new reinforced oil pumps but allocated the same part number as the old unreinforced pump so when the older ones were being replaced the new style pump would always be provided.

    Garry
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelvo View Post
    I can’t believe you are unaware of all the spun main bearings and snapping cranks happening to the V6 Diesel engines worldwide.

    While a 100% known reason for the failures has not been established, at least not been made public, low oil pressure is not going to be a good thing for any engine.

    If the information on the uprated pump website is correct, should you rather have the engine oil pressure at 1.8 bar or 4.0 bar?

    I know I’d want 4.0 bar.
    But how reliable is the uprated pump?
    0 bar from a failed pump.
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  5. #15
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    From the land of Lada's, i dont think so.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeanC View Post
    But how reliable is the uprated pump?
    0 bar from a failed pump.

    I wouldn't even dream of not putting in the genuine part,to much risk.

    Would it actually reduce bearing failures?

    No one would know,and it could cause other issues.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelvo View Post
    I can’t believe you are unaware of all the spun main bearings and snapping cranks happening to the V6 Diesel engines worldwide.
    Totally aware of these issues but they have nothing to do with low oil pressure - design combined with poor maintenance in most cases.

    Can you show me where this is caused by low oil pressure? Links? In fact can you show me where there is a systemic issue with low oil pressure in these issue.

    Following your logic, 8 bar would be better, what about 10 or 20 bar - after all more is better rather than what level is appropriate.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Totally aware of these issues but they have nothing to do with low oil pressure - design combined with poor maintenance in most cases.

    Can you show me where this is caused by low oil pressure?
    Anecdotal evidence is the crank bearing failure in my 2016 SDV6 last week. The car had 72k kms, and had received oil and filter every 12k kms from new at LR dealer.
    About 15 minutes after the engine failed, beside the road, I removed the oil filler cap and used a torch to look inside. It was dry. No sign of oil. I don't expect it to drain that fast.
    The car been serviced by LR one week prior, and the dash menu indicated the correct oil level.
    I suspect but can't prove an oil pump problem as the root cause.
    Replacing the oil pump at same time as timing belt is relatively cheap insurance.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Totally aware of these issues but they have nothing to do with low oil pressure - design combined with poor maintenance in most cases.
    Can you show me where design combined with poor maintenance in most cases is the cause? Links? There are at least three failures that I know of on vehicles with full dealer service records, with one of those having oil and filter changes in between scheduled services. So while poor maintenance is not good these failures are happening to well maintained vehicles.


    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Can you show me where this is caused by low oil pressure? Links? In fact can you show me where there is a systemic issue with low oil pressure in these issue
    I have no proof that low oil pressure is the cause. But failures of components (Crank main bearings and crankshafts) that rely on good lubrication could point to poor or low oil pressure. If the oil pump pressure relief is set for 4.5 bar, as it is with these engines, and the pump is only producing 1.5 bar (Information quoted by the uprated pump supplier) that is only 33% of maximum pressure.


    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Following your logic, 8 bar would be better, what about 10 or 20 bar - after all more is better rather than what level is appropriate.
    Given the oil pump pressure relief is set for 4.5 bar running above this is going to impact oil seals, so running 8, 10 or 20 bar is just a silly comment.
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    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

  10. #20
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    I did not say all of these failures were the result of poor maintenance but most are or it happens at high kms - yes there are instances of low km and dealer serviced vehicles but these are the minority. The design issue is in the crank itself which is prone to cracking - in the UK forum a guy suffered a broken crank and bought a engine that had been serviceable at the time the vehicle it was in crashed. The engine itself was damaged and could not be used but many of the parts could. When the crank was being readied for installation in the old engine it was xrayed and found that it was already starting to crack even though the engine it had been in was fully serviceable - design and/or build quality is the issue not oil pressure. Likewise the big end bearing shells can move due to poor design (corrected in the later 2.7s) - this is exacerbated by poor oils and high mileage where excessive wear allows the shells to move and block the oil passages and break the crank.

    There is no evidence that low oil pressure is the issue as if it were all engines would be failing at low kms.

    If you think this Russian oil pump is the bees knees and should be fitted to every engine then go right ahead but one and get it fitted and report back how it goes. Let us know the cost as well.

    The standard oil pump pressure is fine - there is no need to change it - what was more important was identifying the design flaw in the housing design where the cam belt component goes and fixing that.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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