LED trailers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

If you haven't got the green triangle symbol showing up on the dash each time you indicate, the car does not know it is towing and none of the features as mentioned by Kelvo are active.

---

Cheers Eric.
That certainly is my first and logical assumption, but before I go ahead with the resistors I want to revisit the wiring because on both sides there are additions which might be masking any fitment of resistors. I have a CB radio unit in the left along with part of the jack and some spares, and the Traxide control box and a couple of extra Anderson and fridge wires on the right. For someone like me, it does my head in, so another trip to the auto elec is on the cards. [bawl]

I fitted the load resistors to the camper tail light wiring loom instead of to the car, as I don't own a trailer. Saves splicing into the cars wiring. Next step is a rig between the car plug and the camper plug, these should be relatively easy to make by a good auto sparky: the load resistors are cheap and they just splice into the adapter wiring harness, like a Narva round to flat pin adapter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kelvo

This is correct for the car to ‘sense’ that a trailer with LEDs is attached.

I fitted two (One on each indicator) to satisfy my OCD for dash trailer icon to flash when either indicator is used. With only one resistor fitted the dash trailer icon will only flash when indicating with the side that has the resistor fitted.

Plus when it only costs $4.45 for a pair of resistors why not fit both?

---

I bought the Navara one. Wish it was only $4.45!. The other reason I only fitted one is that I fitted a "conversion" adapter... Round plug to a flat 12 pin plug and so just added the resister to the adapter. It only "warms up when I turn on the indicator so I mounted it on a small piece of metal to act as a heat sink of sorts. After all I have a bit of scottish blood in me and I am "canny" with my money!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kelvo

I used these resistors 2x 25W LED 6.8Ohm Load Resistor For Hyper Turn Signal LED Controlle HOT J7C9 | eBay and this switch Round Rocker Switch - Red Actuator | Jaycar Electronics (Website description is wrong it is actually a DPDT switch).

I spliced into the left and right indicator tow socket wiring in the left hand boot compartment. These two cables connect to one pole each of the switch. I mounted the switch so it is tucked on the sloping underside near the 12v outlet on the left side in the boot. Then two cables from the switch to the resistors, the resistors are then connected to the body ground point. I mounted the resistors to an aluminium heatsink that I already had, then mounted the heatsink to the back of the towhitch bracket in the left side storage area. The photo shows the heatsink in place, but with the polystyrene hitch holder not fitted yet. The resistors are tucked away on the back so are physically protected.

---

Hi kelvo,

Thanks for the effort to post the details. Onto the job list it goes.

Cheers David.

I turn my headlights on when I have our trailer on with LEDs, everything works fine after that, actually I drive with the headlights on all the time anyway.

Only thing that doesn't work is the trailer symbol on the dash when you use your indicators, no big deal, I have LLAMS, UHF and HF radios, fridges, extra sockets and many other devices in our D4, no need to worry about parking sensors as we turned them off, everything works fine.

There's heaps of info on the forum about what people have done with the D4 regarding LEDs, as said by someone above the D4 doesn't need a device like the D3 needs, just a resistor and if the auto elec actually knew what he was doing he should be able to make something very simple up for you.

Might wanna try using a LR independent specialist, they should know what to do, I know our local indi LR guy does.

After buying a Jayco van with LED lights I learnt that most European cars test the bulbs to alert you of a blown bulb. This is the cause of the fast flashing LEDS.

After looking around for a solution I found there were some very expensive solutions being sold online. Being a bit of a Scrooge I thought ‘how had can this be?’ I just need to make the car think there are bulbs on the trailer. So I put resistors across the circuits going to the van tail light, stop light, left and right blinker. For the stop and blinkers an 8ohm 25W resistor and for the tail light 16ohm. I mounted all these in a diecast box on the A frame and piggybacked the wiring to the plug. Maybe this is a bit of overkill but it works and didn’t cost much.

Hello all, I recently joined the ranks of D4 owners. And I am still coming to terms with all the electrickery after 20 years driving a 96 110.

I have the issue of the D4 not recognizing the camper trailer with LED lights. I have read another thread suggesting fitting the Ford Ranger adapter (AB3915436BF LED Trailer jumper connector) as it has in built resistors. Well I bought one and it hasn't made a difference.

I still have park sensors active and no trailer signal on the dash. Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks Eric

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kelvo

I used these resistors 2x 25W LED 6.8Ohm Load Resistor For Hyper Turn Signal LED Controlle HOT J7C9 | eBay and this switch Round Rocker Switch - Red Actuator | Jaycar Electronics (Website description is wrong it is actually a DPDT switch).

I spliced into the left and right indicator tow socket wiring in the left hand boot compartment. These two cables connect to one pole each of the switch. I mounted the switch so it is tucked on the sloping underside near the 12v outlet on the left side in the boot. Then two cables from the switch to the resistors, the resistors are then connected to the body ground point. I mounted the resistors to an aluminium heatsink that I already had, then mounted the heatsink to the back of the towhitch bracket in the left side storage area. The photo shows the heatsink in place, but with the polystyrene hitch holder not fitted yet. The resistors are tucked away on the back so are physically protected.

---

Hey Kelvo (and others),

Just bought the gear to do the job. Is the attached a correct wiring diagram of your description?

Attachment 152714

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dagilmo

Hey Kelvo (and others),

Just bought the gear to do the job. Is the attached a correct wiring diagram of your description?

Attachment 152714

---

Yes, that’s how I did mine [thumbsupbig]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kelvo

Yes, that’s how I did mine [thumbsupbig]

---

Great. Thanks for the reply. Jobs on!