The only issue with resistors on the trailer is you have limited yourself to that trailer. Borrow or hire someone else's unit and you're back to square 1. But it's the easiest to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
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The only issue with resistors on the trailer is you have limited yourself to that trailer. Borrow or hire someone else's unit and you're back to square 1. But it's the easiest to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
There are worse ones out there. .just ask canopy makers who fit leds to new Nissans Yotas etc and discover the dilemmas they face in resolving canbus and similar ecu based wiring issues. My future sil's shop spent a day with a sparky resolving led light issues on one truck alone. Car would not even start until the new canopy leds were sorted to the vehicles system. Other trucks he said when leds are installed cause all lights go off like party lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
At a horse show we told a Nissan owner his side lights were on. Can't turn them off he said unless we disconnect the horse float.
So the Disco is generally more tolerant of leds at least.
Yep,Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket rod
why I have not totally made up my mind yet. But not keen on having a switch either that can get left on or knocked.
The Defender was much easier. LOL.
Cheers
CRaig
If you place it correctly it can’t get knocked on.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
If you leave it on the vehicle will show you on the dash!!!
The switch for mine is behind the removable panel on left of cargo area,well out of the way and easily accessible.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
Much better to do the vehicle,and its very easy, so whatever you tow will be fine.
Just remember if you do not have a module to use with LED lights it doesn't really matter in most cases - yes the trailer indicator lights will flicker but it is really quite dull and probably not a roadworthy issue as the indicators do still fully work at full brilliance, it is just that there is a dull flicker as the car tests for the trailer.
As far as the car is concerned - yes the parking sensor noise can be annoying but just turn them off. Other functions in the car will be turned off but really if you know this it is not such an issue.
Garry
The LED flicker does not happen with a D4. This is why you only require cheap simple resistors to let the D4 know a trailer is attached.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
The simlest solution is an in line device. You can use it in different vehicles and use when you have a led trailer
This is a pic of one I made for my RRS It does have relays to defeat pulsing but you can leave them and just use the resistorsout if pulsing is not an issue
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...s-p8300520.jpg
Here is a link to the circuit
I just did mine based on Kelvo's instructions earlier in the thread (thanks again). I made a rookie mistake by not getting a dual pole switch. All looked good with the trailer light on the dash working, until I tested the trailer and both indicators flashing. What an idiot! Funnily, while I was wiring it up I was wondering why you needed two resistors to have the dash light working on both indicators. Anyway, new switch, rewired and working perfectly. Probably $30 (including two switches [bigwhistle]).
I put the switch in the recessed panel in front of the removable panel. Easy to fit and protected by the recess and a newly installed drawer.
I put mine on the car as I have 3 trailers.
Why must the load resisters be on the indicators and not all lights such has stop, tail/parking lights?Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvo