I bought a Chinesium one for the D2a for a trip emergency but installed it later as i was seling the car. The seal failed within12 months. Gen lasted over 200 000ks. I avoid Chinese for any of our cars and other machinery critical parts.
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I bought a Chinesium one for the D2a for a trip emergency but installed it later as i was seling the car. The seal failed within12 months. Gen lasted over 200 000ks. I avoid Chinese for any of our cars and other machinery critical parts.
Don't do it! I brought a pair to replace LHF and have a spare and got 19,000 klm before having to replace with the spare. At 9,000 klm so far I expect to have to buy Timken soon. The first one is in the Tip near you. NickQuote:
Originally Posted by Grappler
Been do some googling on conterfeit Tinkin bearings. This link is a typical article on the problem. The fakes are hard to distinguish from the real thing, apart from failing prematurely
According to press releases by Timkin and SKF they say they only sell through distributors not on Amazon
Bogus Bearings Look More Real Than the Real Ones
I bought genuine through All 4x4 spares or lrdirect . I think they were about $450 delivered for both sides.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grappler
Its not a hard job so if you did want to try the chinese cheapies its not the end of the world
Are the Meyle brand front wheel bearings regarded also as inferior to Timken as a good name otherwise.
Could you press out the rear drive flange and bearings and refit with a 6T or 12T press ??
Mmmm, I hit the flange out with a hammer with the hub on my lap.Quote:
Originally Posted by haydent
The bearing from memory loaded up my press and it's 20t, it did them.. But I remember thinking I might need to help it.
I'm my opinion you wouldn't bash out the old bearing. You'd need to press it. And I think you'd get the new bearing in with 12t.
Oh the inner race stuck to the drive hub..I had to carefully grind it off.
I ended up going to a friends instead of buying my own. he has a 20T, though im pretty sure a 12T would have been fine.
The trickiest thing is having the right size bits to press in with and support it, we blew one new bearing by not supporting the rear of it while pressing in the flange.
We used this type of tool to pull the inner race off the drive flange
Attachment 182427
Also doing up the rear half (drive) shaft nut was 350nm!
Yes, did mine in a 10t press at a mates place, we just had to machine up an adapter to seat into the bearing rather than on the hub, this was a piece of round bar stock. You could also use a standard socket and turn it down to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by haydent
Except if they fail at an inopertune location or time... Then all savings are instantly negated...Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco-tastic
