D3 2008 TDV6 Shudder!!

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Originally Posted by SeanC

When topping off, the fluid needs to be between 30 and 50 degrees celsius

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correct fluid level is achieved with engine running, filling the transmission and fluid dribbles out with transmission oil temperature at 35degrees Celsius when viewed on your gap IID or other suitable diagnostic tool.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

What do you mean by "professional assessment?

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Get the gearbox checked by an auto expert familiar with the ZF. Oterwise you/we are just guessing what the specific issue is. Get a second opinion as well.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

If it was mine, I would be doing the following at those sort of k’s and given the stop start driving;

-Full flush including the cooler, this gets the old fluid out of the TConverter as well.
-steel pan with duoprene gasket and new filter, a ZF BMW pan should be the same, as long as it’s for the right ZF ‘box you’re good to go.
- new valve body to transmission seals
- new mechatronic seal
-drop the valve body out and put a Sonnax ZiP kit through it. It seems like you’ve caught the shudder early enough, most likely from the valve lines in the VB being partially blocked or leaking past their oem seals. This prevents the full amount of fluid / correct pressure getting to the TC, so it can’t lock up and hence shudders. Low fluid pressure hammers the clutch packs as well, so worth doing to extend the life of the clutches.

the Sonnax kit has all the instructions, and includes new end of line seals, pistons and accumulator springs and all the o rings you need.

- new solenoids if the old ones test at less than 5ohm. I replaced all mine anyway, seeing as I was there. New solenoids improve shift and ensure the valve is fully open or closed.

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This sound WAY more involved than expected - and pretty expensive at the garage - I do not have the time, tools or space to be undertaking this work myself.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

This sound WAY more involved than expected - and pretty expensive at the garage - I do not have the time, tools or space to be undertaking this work myself.

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Its not that difficult really and can potentially save you thousands or just fit a new tc for around 2k.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Its not that difficult really and can potentially save you thousands or just fit a new tc for around 2k.

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So with a minor shudder which has just started presenting it's self your suggestion is to replace the TC?? Seems WAY over the top!!

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

So with a minor shudder which has just started presenting it's self your suggestion is to replace the TC?? Seems WAY over the top!!

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Well 90% of the time shudder is caused by the TC and that means replacement. If you dont like the answers, dont ask the question. You are shooting the messengers.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

So with a minor shudder which has just started presenting it's self your suggestion is to replace the TC?? Seems WAY over the top!!

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Start with a full flush and filter change , and then see how you go from there.

The answers you are receiving are what others have experienced , so it gives you an idea of all possibilities from a simple flush right thru to a new TC.

Cheers Ean

But most important jay_guess share your experience and feedback of the repair so we all can learn a bit more. My 6 speed at 210,000km has had a full oil flush at 90k and 180k and (touch wood) is operating fine. Has done little towing.

Out of interest - has the car had to do any steep driveway exits at cold temperatures? Have heard this is a particularly viscous torture for gearboxes. There’s usually something interesting that creates the ‘arduous’ operation and shortened life.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

So with a minor shudder which has just started presenting it's self your suggestion is to replace the TC?? Seems WAY over the top!!

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I caught mine very early. The mechanic said you might get 2000kms or 20000kms. Hard to say.

I got 20000kms. You are not going to fix it, you are just delaying the inevitable. So do you spend the money on a transmission flush etc. knowing that you will have to change the TC “relatively” soon. Or do you save the money and get a new TC now?

Just get the adaptions checked, and you will no doubt then be advised that the TC is shuddering due to wear and low line presssure, consequently resulting in an inability to clamp the plate.
Leaving it without inaction will result in the TC clutch lining disintegrating and flooding the trans with metallic particles..