Very strange response! I'm not shooting anyone - it seems that many on here have had good results with a mega flush etc - so for my replacing the TC as first cause of action is justifiably noted as "over the top"
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Stupid newbie questions....how would you describe said shudder? is it a very mild vibration at various speeds, I think mine might be starting to do this.
And (flame suit on) would it do any harm to briefly run the motor with this auto pan off to help remove oil in the lines etc?
Cheers, Mick.
D3 4.0l 2007
I have heard of people disconnecting the oil cooler lines at the cooler and filling the trans will oil then doing basically what you have said , I haven't done it and don't think I would but guess anything is possible.
I just purchased a 20 ltr drum of oil off ZF and done 2 sump drops in 500ks and guessed that would get rid of most of the old oil and was a lot safer that running the engine with hoses off.
Cheers Ean
Exactly what I did. Remember the clutch packs are wet style and the t.c relies on hydraulic pressure. I for one would not run these "dry" for the sake of a few litres of ATF. I reckon you could potentially cause more damage running dry, exactly what you're trying to prevent. I flushed about 3 litres through into a clear container from the cooler hoses, until it ran clear. That was good enough for me.
When you do it through the pipes - the old oil comes out and you collect it and the new oil goes in at the same time under pressure either gravity or via something like a garden sprayer - you do this until clean oil comes out - so the gearbox is never deprived of oil.
However you need to do a basic drop and refill first to get clean oil into the sump as this minimises old oil mixing with the new oil. The box sucks oil from the sump, through the gearbox and TC and then to the oil cooler and then back to the sump. So if there is already fresh oil in the sump there is minimal mixing as this new oil as it is pumped up into the galleries and forcing the old oil out.
Garry
Thanks for the replies, I think I'll just drop the oil twice depending on how dark it is the first time.
If it holds 10L and a sump drop is 4L then after one sump drop 60% of the old oil remains.
After the second, 36% of the old until you've done about 6 drain/fill cycles to get to about 5% of the old oil remaining.
So if you use the entire 20L drum for drain/fill cycles you'll have ~8% of the original fluid still in there (just under a litre).
A cooler line flush is SOP for loads of Auto boxes. As 101RRS says, it prevents dirty fluid returning to the sump (excepting internal leakage anyway) and pushes clean fluid through the valve body and TC.
On older transmissions it was standard practice to run the transmission through each selector position for 5 seconds to flush all the passages in the valve block, but I don't know if you can do that with the new boxes.
On the older boxes I fill the sump and idle the engine until the first bubbles appear in the return line. You can also use a graduated container and measure the fluid out. Stop when you're ~1/2L from the volume you put in and then replace that volume in the sump. Once you've done it the first time you realise it's not actually scary and like flushing brake fluid it's really easy to see when the process is done as the colour changes in the return line.