Well now you are taking things out of context - my earlier suggestions are as above.
1. I did suggest early stages of TC failure and it is still probably the case.
2. I did suggest what exactly you did - do a flush, do the pan and filter.
3. I suggested you might be lucky and get it in time and this may be the case
4. I suggested you get the gearbox checked by an auto expert familiar with the ZF which you also did
You did exactly as I and others suggested but that was not good enough - I hope all goes well for you but the realistic position is that you are at the start of TC failure that may have been nipped in the bud but there is a chance that as Justinc/Sean advised it may start up again in a few thousands/tens of thousands Km down the track.
Good luck with it.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
It's not "glass half empty" as much as it is realistic. The clutch lining is worn. If it wasn't it wouldn't shudder. All you've done is replace the fluid with clean, un-sheared fluid (so thicker) containing new friction modifier. That'll help the clutch linings grip and assist with the fluid pressure on the clutch, but ultimately they're still going to slip and wear. As they slip and wear they also wear out the friction modifier in the fluid until it'll start to slip noticeably again.
Yes, as you correctly observe, the clutch starts to wear the first time you drive off, but when you reach a point when you are relying on the new friction modifier to reduce the slipping to a level where you don't notice it, you are well on the way to a point where no amount of goo will make it go away.
Personally I hope you get another hundred thousand k's (or more) out of it.
jay_guess, this is really most disingenuous of you. You have received seven pages of advice from well meaning and knowledgeable amateurs, plus sound advice from the odd professional mechanic. From your previous post it would seem that most, if not all, of the comments were heading you in the right direction. Not bad for a user forum.
It's hard enough to diagnose problems in a workshop, let alone remotely by correspondence.
Personally, I would have been grateful that the D3/4 community took the time to try and assist me, irrespective of the level of optimism of the posts.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
I’m not your friend - and unlikely to ever be.
My social skills are just fine - I haven’t killed anyone in the last 15 years or so. And my reading is just fine. Posts in question are mentioned below.
You have been graciously told that you can potentially extend the current life of your transmission before the problem (shudder) comes back. You then turn on the sarcasm and run with “well it’s failing from the forecourt” - not if it’s originally looked after it’s not - but its unlikely your vehicle has had that love and is now suffering the effects of this.
You can go on and on about it - but the reality is in post #5 you were given the “rebuild delaying” info.
In post #14 you were told it should extend the life before rebuild and given the alternative of immediately fitting a replacement part to solve the problem then and there. Nobody said that’s what you MUST do; only that it will FIX - not Bandaid - the problem.
You have installed the first of 2 bandaids - your transmission adaptations will be maxed out dealing with the new fluid.
Next step will be another flush and Dr Tranny.
Finally the day will come and that won’t be enough.
By then there is a catch - ALL the above ‘life extenders’ have one drawback - the TC material has been breaking down and flowing through the transmission and now you’ll need to rebuild everything to get it all out.
And if you plan to do some heavy towing it will all come to an end earlier.
But that’s ok...don’t take the advice if you wish.
All those in this thread who assisted you with data, even if you didn’t like what you read, still assisted. Even warning you of forthcoming outcomes.
You can get so much out of this place; don’t go knocking the old guard (my post count is not indicative of my time, input or support of this forum).
We have the experience, the knowledge and the understanding of these vehicles. We’re often only too happy to offer help and advice.
One thing Landrovers don’t like - is cheap fixes. History shows do it once, do it right - or pay twice.
Best of luck.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
I shudder to think where this thread is going
I don't want to pan anyone but I just don't have the gear to adequately filter the debris being generated by the friction in this thread, and I think we'd be clutching at straws in attempting to prevent further degradation down the (already well lubricated) slippery slope.
I'd be looking at doing it sooner. I use some additional filtration on my oil cooler return line and I have been having the oil lab tested since my trans was rebuilt 90,000km ago. At 78,000km on the trans the oil contamination to me was building up to an unacceptable level. By the time I got time to change it a couple of months later I was up to 91,000km. Without additional filtration the contamination levels will be at excessive levels much sooner. For most I'd recommend 60,000 tops before a change.
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
I would like to thank everyone for their input / suggestions / support, and I will report back if and when we have any further issues. Until then we look forward to many trouble free Kilometres.
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