Reply With Quote.....and cooler so it and the lines will have to be flushed or replaced.Originally Posted by justinc
Master
Very strange response! I'm not shooting anyone - it seems that many on here have had good results with a mega flush etc - so for my replacing the TC as first cause of action is justifiably noted as "over the top"
ForumSage
Supporter.....and cooler so it and the lines will have to be flushed or replaced.
Fossicker
Stupid newbie questions....how would you describe said shudder? is it a very mild vibration at various speeds, I think mine might be starting to do this.
And (flame suit on) would it do any harm to briefly run the motor with this auto pan off to help remove oil in the lines etc?
Cheers, Mick.
D3 4.0l 2007
LordRover
SubscriberFor a short burst its OK, what I did was use clear hose and clear container and measured approximately 4ltrs out then pumped in fresh 4ltrs (engine off) , repeat until approximately 10ltrs has been replaced.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Master
SubscriberThe shudder feels like you are driving on the ripple strips on the outside lane line. First time it happened that was what I thought it was. But there were no ripple strips so didn’t take long to realise what the real reason was.
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
I have heard of people disconnecting the oil cooler lines at the cooler and filling the trans will oil then doing basically what you have said , I haven't done it and don't think I would but guess anything is possible.
I just purchased a 20 ltr drum of oil off ZF and done 2 sump drops in 500ks and guessed that would get rid of most of the old oil and was a lot safer that running the engine with hoses off.
Cheers Ean
ChatterBox
Subscriber
Exactly what I did. Remember the clutch packs are wet style and the t.c relies on hydraulic pressure. I for one would not run these "dry" for the sake of a few litres of ATF. I reckon you could potentially cause more damage running dry, exactly what you're trying to prevent. I flushed about 3 litres through into a clear container from the cooler hoses, until it ran clear. That was good enough for me.
LordRover
SupporterWhen you do it through the pipes - the old oil comes out and you collect it and the new oil goes in at the same time under pressure either gravity or via something like a garden sprayer - you do this until clean oil comes out - so the gearbox is never deprived of oil.
However you need to do a basic drop and refill first to get clean oil into the sump as this minimises old oil mixing with the new oil. The box sucks oil from the sump, through the gearbox and TC and then to the oil cooler and then back to the sump. So if there is already fresh oil in the sump there is minimal mixing as this new oil as it is pumped up into the galleries and forcing the old oil out.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Fossicker
Thanks for the replies, I think I'll just drop the oil twice depending on how dark it is the first time.
Super ModeratorIf it holds 10L and a sump drop is 4L then after one sump drop 60% of the old oil remains.
After the second, 36% of the old until you've done about 6 drain/fill cycles to get to about 5% of the old oil remaining.
So if you use the entire 20L drum for drain/fill cycles you'll have ~8% of the original fluid still in there (just under a litre).
A cooler line flush is SOP for loads of Auto boxes. As 101RRS says, it prevents dirty fluid returning to the sump (excepting internal leakage anyway) and pushes clean fluid through the valve body and TC.
On older transmissions it was standard practice to run the transmission through each selector position for 5 seconds to flush all the passages in the valve block, but I don't know if you can do that with the new boxes.
On the older boxes I fill the sump and idle the engine until the first bubbles appear in the return line. You can also use a graduated container and measure the fluid out. Stop when you're ~1/2L from the volume you put in and then replace that volume in the sump. Once you've done it the first time you realise it's not actually scary and like flushing brake fluid it's really easy to see when the process is done as the colour changes in the return line.
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