What happened to your D3/D4 today?

A trip to the tyre dude to get the Trek screw and the piece of steel removed from the tyre. Then I also noticed that 1 of the 5 off road tyres in the shed had a nail in it so it also got fixed.

Nice to see a tyre shop that uses a torque wrench. Is 130psi correct for the wheel nuts?

While I was there I was listening to the guy tell a lady to ignore the tyre placard and go higher. I normally fill my tyre to whatever is written on it (can’t quite remember). What psi are others running in their 255/55/19’s ?

It was funny to watch them put the jack under the diff and watch the incredible suspension travel. They couldn’t lift the tyres of the ground and had to find a different jacking point!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ac10e4e70b.jpg

140Nm or 103ft/lb. Yes, they can easily be over-tightened. Jacking points on chassis are best. There's also one on the front cross member that raises the whole front evenly.
Tyre pressures depend on load and accessories. For a base car I'd be looking at around 34 to 36psi front and 38 to 40psi rear for on-road.

I took the compomotives off and put the 19" LR wheels on. The 18" have not so good Cooper AT3s and the 19" near new Conti UHPs. Remarkable difference with ride and handling on the road. Mental note to self: Worth the 30 mins to change them over and need make the effort between off road trips. Also, zinc anti seized the studs and put some copper grease on the brake pad carriers- well the ones I could get to. Hoping the cooper grease gets them moving. In the mornings after first application of the brakes it seems the pads stay in semi contact with the disc causing a squeal until a couple of applications. After that they are they are fine for the day.

Have had a slight loss of coolant on the D4 SC since buying the car..which we suspected at the time but was assured by the cafe owner that it had been fixed with a new water pump.

Also decided to replace the supercharger coupler which are known to give trouble...eg rattles.

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless so just worked steadily removing hoses and electrical connectors wherever they looked to be in the way. There are 2 connectors at the back of the sc which are truly a pia to get at.
Got the top cover off pretty easily but the sc itself was really hard to budge off its locating pins. Levering steadily up and down it finally let go.

On the bench the oil was drained and the snout removed and new bearings pressed in. With new oil it was done. The spring coupler was shot with large amounts of movement from the spring wearing into its plastic housing. Replaced with a gen Eaton solid coupler from the good ol USA.

Noticed a pool of coolant in the valley which appeared to be coming from a hard plastic crossover pipe connecting the heads. The o rings on removal were very flat

Pulled the water pump which is new and noticed the pipe connecting the pump to the oil cooler in the valley was askew.

Looks like the mechanic that fitted the new pump had not located the pipe and seal correctly. ...so it was leaking.

Ordered a new oil cooler feed pipe and head cross-over pipe from the dealer...which will take a couple days to get here cause there's issues with the new wharehouse😐

Anyhow...once assembled it should leak no more☺

Glad I beat the cafe owner down on the price.. something tells me he was telling a few porkies😎

Total cost will be less than 500 bucks inc the sc rebuild.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by INter674

Have had a slight loss of coolant on the D4 SC since buying the car..which we suspected at the time but was assured by the cafe owner that it had been fixed with a new water pump.

Also decided to replace the supercharger coupler which are known to give trouble...eg rattles.

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless so just worked steadily removing hoses and electrical connectors wherever they looked to be in the way. There are 2 connectors at the back of the sc which are truly a pia to get at.
Got the top cover off pretty easily but the sc itself was really hard to budge off its locating pins. Levering steadily up and down it finally let go.

On the bench the oil was drained and the snout removed and new bearings pressed in. With new oil it was done. The spring coupler was shot with large amounts of movement from the spring wearing into its plastic housing. Replaced with a gen Eaton solid coupler from the good ol USA.

Noticed a pool of coolant in the valley which appeared to be coming from a hard plastic crossover pipe connecting the heads. The o rings on removal were very flat

Pulled the water pump which is new and noticed the pipe connecting the pump to the oil cooler in the valley was askew.

Looks like the mechanic that fitted the new pump had not located the pipe and seal correctly. ...so it was leaking.

Ordered a new oil cooler feed pipe and head cross-over pipe from the dealer...which will take a couple days to get here cause there's issues with the new wharehouse[emoji52]

Anyhow...once assembled it should leak no more[emoji5]

Glad I beat the cafe owner down on the price.. something tells me he was telling a few porkies[emoji41]

Total cost will be less than 500 bucks inc the sc rebuild.

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Cripes, you got all that done in a day?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by INter674

Tried using the manual but quickly realised it is largely useless

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Yeah I’ve had a lot of manufacturer manuals in my time and the Land Rover ones are generally awful in comparison. The random zoomed in picture of some part of the car with a part highlighted with no explanation leaves a lot to be desired. I do admit they are a complicated vehicle with large manuals, but still [emoji6]

Yeah could easily have got it all back together in a day if I'd ordered the parts earlier.. should have taken more note of the US sites which are very informative on these engines eg supercharger rebuild.

I wasted 2 hours trying to find and print off info from the manual. ...lots of pictures but little explanation.

I found the engine quite easy to access once I worked out how to eg drain the coolant. . Which the manual seems to presume the whole front skirt is off to access the radiator 😐. I ended up just reefing a hose off a cooler under the engine. Even that involved undoing 5 bolts and one stupid spring clamp.

Working out how to unplug the connectors is also a chore as they vary a lot in design. I almost cut the back ones after getting now where for half an hour. ...but then they let go with some persuasion from big screwdrivers☺

Could not get the fan off tho as the 10mm bolts were so tight they would have sheared but fortunately the water pump just wiggled out from behind it. I suspect this is what caused the last repair to go wrong. But with the sc off I can see where and how the little tube at the back actually seats on both the pump and oil cooler spigot.

Good thing is the connectors will go back on a lot easier!

Attachment 155542

Looks like this atm. The small pipe at front is where the plastic tube connects to the oil cooler and water pump. Next to that a y shaped hard plastic sssembly plugs in then winding its way up to the frontal area. There are 5 o rings in this assembly so lots to go wrong and in an impossible location for daily maintenance.

Don't know why they did not use a more reliable system eg fabbed ss tube would be better.

Attachment 155543

Supercharger waiting to go back on. Only 6 bolts hold it in place onto the inlet manifolds. Again design/location is poor in that you can't remove the snout for repair without removing the whole unit. There is no drain either and the fill plug is located im****ibly between the sc body and a bracket at the back of the engine bay. Sealed for life of course....as if!!

Oil is even more expensive than ZF tranny fluid!

Changed the drive belt, tensioner and idler today. Took photos of the bearings incase anyone else is getting close to being due. Both are easy to change. And cheap common bearings.