What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by INter674

Sooo...what gives up on the alt?

I have rebuilt many alts over the years usually for the cost of a couple brushes n bearings and occasionally seals. The electrical side of things are usually good to go albeit I've also replaced regs and diodes on some.

Is it that the flood of chinese units makes it easier to install a newbie rather than refurb like we used to do in the past?

I know my sons just buy the cheapies which seem to go for a while until mud n dust gets them. But I then repair the gen units which cost a k new and keep them for when the cheapies give up ☺

So what fails and why not repair them?

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As noted above, the rectifier pack drops a diode or more and it releases a lovely burning smell [smilebigeye]
Left unsorted this then kills the battery in short order.

As for rebuilding it, I got a genuine Denso replacement for $500 so wasnt going to bother - and unfortunately needed the vehicle running by this morning, so timing was critical to get it back running.

I've kept the old one - which is in great condition otherwise, and will replace the diodes and shelve it for when this one eventually fails.


I too run 3 batteries, lots of high draw gear, charge a 200ah Camper, and do a significant amount of Night driving, all of which adds to the workload.

I pulled out the cup holder just to see what was under it and I saw this. What is the red thing for? I didn’t think the SE model came with pilot election system!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b69320847.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d1758e1d3.jpg

Electric park brake emergency release. I think

The red lever puts the transmission into neutral. The park brake release is close by, a small wire loop. It would normally be sitting under that plastic tray with two screws so had perhaps been operated at some point.

Scott

RTFM [emoji6]

Yes..and every RACT RACV technitian and tilt tray driver know how to operate the red lever. ..but alas they know nothing else about these cars...as I found out recently😆

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Originally Posted by matti4556

I investigated my old alt when it was replaced with a new unit at around 160k. The Indy grabbed it out of their bin when I asked for it
Rectifier pack fried. You could see the diodes delaminating from the board. I run 3 batteries so heat was the issue.
Replaced the rectifier pack at home on the bench (as you would know there is a large soldering iron required). No different to most other alternators I have seen.
Rectifier pack purchased on eBay from a vendor in Ireland?
All up about $35 delivered.
Nothing special in these things apart from the list price.
P.s. Bearings and one-way drive pulley bearings were butter smooth so they were not touched.
Matti

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I have my still working original D3 MY08 alternator I preventatively removed at about 170k kms. If anyone wants it (for some amber fluid) give me a shout if handy and motivated enough to replace diodes. As said is currently working perfectly. In Perth.

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Originally Posted by John_D4

Why cobalt and not a standard drillbit?

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pretty much any HSS drill bit (preferably fully ground) should do the job.
If they don't cut ... they're blunt and if they snap whilst drilling ... the speed is too high.
Just because they are known as HSS doesn't mean you have to use them at high speed.
If it's cutting properly their should be one continuous piece of swarf off the drill bit.
If the hole being drilled is over say 1/2"... then place a small piece of damp rag (folded into fours) first over the hole being drilled.
Drill at LOW speed and enough pressure to get that steady stream of swarf. The rag will minimise the chance of 'chatter' and provide a very smooth final hole .... and save many a drill bit or two to boot!!

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Originally Posted by Parso

Was contemplating the Falkens but I acted too slow and the buy 3 get one free deal ended for the month so I ended up with Nitto Terra Wranglers 265/60/r18. Very happy.
From research it was between Falkens, Nitto and Toyos with Falkens best value for money.

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"Buy one .. get one free"[bighmmm]
I pretty much always found that when these deals are on ... the simply put the tyre price up to (or close to) the RRP.
Shop around the tyre places and play them off against each other to get as low a price as possible ... and even if you have to pay for the 4th tyre ... you can often be better off.
Regardless of what they tell you ... there are HUGE markups on tyres!!

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Originally Posted by rapserv

"Buy one .. get one free"[bighmmm]
I pretty much always found that when these deals are on ... the simply put the tyre price up to (or close to) the RRP.
Shop around the tyre places and play them off against each other to get as low a price as possible ... and even if you have to pay for the 4th tyre ... you can often be better off.
Regardless of what they tell you ... there are HUGE markups on tyres!!

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Haha you're not wrong, at the end of the day I compared lowest price after discounts and that was what I could get locally.