What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Got home after a 1200k pootle around the South West. Saw loads of D3s, some 4s and a couple of D1 V8s.
Averaged 13.3L/100 with the van on the back, so I suppose I shouldn’t moan. Felt like relatively we used a lot of fuel.

Didn’t need a flat bed. That’s 4 Easters since the last real breakdown. Did get a suspension fault as we were idling into the caravan park which is the same as the one I got last year with air leaking back into the gallery, but no sign of any leaks / issues. Reset with the Gap and haven’t had a whisper since. I didn’t re-seal the rear valve block, so I wonder if the extra load on the rear was causing a transient leak. Oh well, I’ll do the rear block before the next trip.

It really is a nice tug when it’s all running nicely. We did a run with my brother and his brood in the back with all seats occupied and that caused a number of digs from my sister in law to my brother about the ride in his “‘cruiser” (it’s a Prado). [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by BradC

Averaged 13.3L/100 with the van on the back, so I suppose I shouldn’t moan. Felt like relatively we used a lot of fuel.

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No you shouldn't moan, I get about that with no towing involved[tonguewink]

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

No you shouldn't moan, I get about that with no towing involved[tonguewink]

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I do about 10.5 in the city and 9.5 in the country usually. That’s by the spreadsheet rather than the “somewhat optimistic” dashboard. Still, towing the same van at the same speed with the Volvo would see about 20l/100km and a very stroppy family, so I’ll take it.

I beld my brakes on the Disco 4 for the first time today. I had to buy 4000kg Kinchrome bottle jacks and 3ton jack stand from kinchrome also. I made the mistake of starting from the front when i should of started from the rear passanger side. Anyone chime in with some pointers please but i jacked the front took off the tires and bled them as best as i could heaps of air and dark redish fluid came out. I then did the rears where i didnt have to jack the wheels up at all. I was able to lay under the car and access the nipples with ease. Alot of foam and air and more dark red fluid came out, topped it up at the front in the resovoir and kept pumping and then the brakes came good. Sealed it up did a test drive and some hard braking and its good as new!

Nice cold beer and a nice medium rare steak with some duck fat potatos!!! a good way to end the day!

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Originally Posted by Pokiou

Anyone chime in with some pointers please but i jacked the front took off the tires and bled them as best as i could heaps of air and dark redish fluid came out

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I pressurize the reservoir and drain it out as close to empty as I dare in both chambers just using the nearest wheel cylinder for each chamber, then fill it up with clean fluid and then rears/fronts. I can't figure any better way to empty it without pulling it off and making an unholy mess.

I put about 15-20PSI on the reservoir and it just pushes the fluid through. First time I did it the fluid that came out was like old transmission fluid, but the next time it was barely discoloured over new. It was probably a decade old.

I can do it now without pulling the wheels, but I tend to do it when I do a service which always has a tyre rotate and EPB adjust anyway so the wheels are off.

If you were actually getting any air out of the calipers the brakes would have been terribly soft, but it's common for air to sneak past the bleeder while bleeding which makes it look like there was air in there.

Exactly what I was going to say Brad. It’ll be air at the bleed screw. And air in the system and it’d feel like no brakes at all.

I also use 15psi to bleed. I have a Motiv bleeder but I don’t fill it with fluid, instead I use it with air and use the air to push fluid through. Do a corner, depressure, refill, continue. I normally use 2L every three years and give it a damn good flush.

Is the magic brake fluid available easily anywhere else but the dealer yet?

I’m looking forward to doing it with the IID tool next time now I have one.

I’ve got an oil sucker vacuum tool which has a fine tube perfect for master cylinders and power steering reservoirs although defeating strainers can be a challenge on some cars.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Is the magic brake fluid available easily anywhere else but the dealer yet?

I’m looking forward to doing it with the IID tool next time now I have one.

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Absolutely, but I just buy it cheap as from the UK when I place an order. This time though I used one from AF

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...56be3abbc0.jpg

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Absolutely, but I just buy it cheap as from the UK when I place an order. This time though I used one from AF

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...56be3abbc0.jpg

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LR spec is for a Class 6 fluid.

I use Penrite DOT 5.1 (Which supersedes Penrite DOT 4 ESP which was a Class 6 fluid). But make sure you don’t buy the older DOT 5.1 as that was not Class 6. https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis...20FLUID%20.pdf

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Originally Posted by kelvo

LR spec is for a Class 6 fluid.

I use Penrite DOT 5.1 (Which supersedes Penrite DOT 4 ESP which was a Class 6 fluid). But make sure you don’t buy the older DOT 5.1 as that was not Class 6. https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis...20FLUID%20.pdf

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Urgh. Good point. I just assumed as it showed up on the page it was compatible. FFS. I’m not in the mood for flushing again! Teach me for not paying attention