Now retrofit the fuel burning heater and bathe in winter bliss!
Wouldn't be without my heated seats though.
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Got my key fob back from the UK after having it repaired, new case, micro switches and battery. Approx $50 all up including shipping. Bargain!
The D3 is getting new rear upper and lower arms plus new hub bushes next week. Well overdue as they are all original and it is at 311k
Transmission flush and filter is next job.
Went and saw them today. Really nice setup and they are pretty serious about how they go about it. Had a chat and the "thumb suck" with the Disco wheels is $200 per wheel to straighten them, but the heat required totally cooks the paint so another $275 to re-paint it. Since all I know at this point is I've done at least 2, it might well be a non-starter at the moment.
Looks like I'm up for replacement wheels, and 4 new AT tyres to match the new Pirelli I had fitted to the spare in Denham for a matching set. I'll have to live with the additional road noise.
Without the van on the back, I've noticed considerable torque steer under heavy acceleration (the spare that went on the left front is about 2% larger than the remainder).
In the mean time, I suppose I'm driving the Volvo.
Be more careful next time Brad!
Fortunately I've still got factory 18's on my D4 and have never damaged any of them. If I do ever damage any and have to spend money, I think I would use that as an excuse to buy me a set of the Tuffant Kimberley Alloys. Best looking after market wheels I've seen yet for the D4. I was hoping the "Fuel Vector" rims for the Amarok might fit. Stud pattern is the same - but the hole in the middle is unfortunately not big enough to fit on the Discovery hub.
Attachment 179778 Attachment 179779 Attachment 179780
They do kook nice though. [thumbsupbig]
Well finally my back tailgate door just stopped working not even a murmur of action or movement completely dead. Have tried every combination of key fob and internal lock switches.
Does that mean most likely the switch is kaput vs the latch mechanism? Latch has been replaced previously but at that time it became intermittent. Can I try cleaning the switch? Any diagnosis tips appreciated.
Luckily I put in an emergency release some time ago for this day.
I read the instructions and the emergency release method on D3 is pressing the console lock and unlock buttons together for 3 seconds (not instantaneously) and voilà it unlocks so the actuator works so probably the external micro switch in the upper tailgate handle. I see PowerfulUK sells the switch only for a quick change.
If you need one in a hurry I have an aftermarket one here. When mine failed I bought 2.
Boot Tailgate Opener Release Control Latch For Ford Focus MK2 C-Max 2004-2008 | eBay
Getting ready for a 3 month touring trip.
2nd and 3rd row seats removed, false floor in the back with rear 2/3 on a slide and front 1/3 of the rear attached to a piano hinge to lift that section for easy storage access.
I didn't make the whole section to slide out for access because once slide all the way out would make storage access to difficult due to the length of floor hanging out the rear.
All mounted to the factory fittings , it sits about 40mm higher the the seats when folded down.
Tools , recovery gear and spares go under the rear floor.
Second row seat location has a false floor mounted to make a flat mounting platform where second battery, oven and fridge are mounted.
Battery sits on the drivers side, bolted down to the the false floor with a frame over the top of it and the oven mounted to the frame work.
Fridge sits sideways on the passenger side with easy access via the passengers rear door.
All works a treat and having the battery and fridge in the center of the car brings some weight forward as the rear is already very heavy once the van is hooked up