What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Took the day off, makes for more time to play on the D4

Started by removing all the auxiliary batteries (2x HVT-50D) one has been completely stuffed for about 7 months so was bypassed, the other gave up a few months ago. With no time to travel it wasn’t critical - however August if a full month of trips so needed to get it done.

With the batteries out, popped the grill, I did passenger side headlight to gain access to the Charger. Connected the Green/Orange together to put it in Lithium mode and reassembled.

Then bypassed the original battery tray with a 75a Powerpole connector.

Over to the drivers side and the ITECH120X battery fits however it’s too tall for the lid.

This is the result of the modification to the lid
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a4104574eb.jpg

Following the post by another member I shot down to Repco and grabbed a battery box to cut up. That turned into this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...409a813734.jpg

Bit of plastic welding to secure and seal it…

Now I’ve also solved my space problem, I can fit my isolator in the original tray.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9a3374cf33.jpg

(Ignore the blood by the bonnet strut. My cars often bite me whilst I work! It’s just a thing.

Nice set up.

Thinking of doing the same here,was going to use the 120X Pro,as i have the room.

Let us know how it goes.[smilebigeye]

Tombie - the blood is a clever LR security feature. Allows DNA matching if your car is ever stolen.

Re: the ITECH120X. Is it correct this can run off the normal charging system? I see it has an inbuilt BMS and claims to be a direct drop in if you already have an auxiliary battery.

Looks like for the D3 at least it could go straight in using the same Traxide auxiliary system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Looks like for the D3 at least it could go straight in using the same Traxide auxiliary system.

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Hi Disco and in a D3 yes, D4 no.

While the D3 has a SMART alternator operation, because its voltage never goes below 13.5, you can charge lithium batteries, both cranking and auxiliary, but be careful when using a lithium battery as a cranking battery.

A D4 also has a SMART alternator but if the D4's BMS detects the cranking battery is full, the SMART alternator operation can run the alternator voltage as low as 12.5v for long periods of time.

This is a common occurrence and while not a problem with lead acid batteries ( AGMs or Wet Cells ), with lithium batteries, when ever the alternator voltage drops below 13.2v, your D4's electric will actually be power by the lithium batteries, not your alternator.

As you can see, Tombie is using a DC/DC device to charge his AUXILIARY lithium batteries.

BTW Disco, if your Traxide isolator has the In-Cab module, if you change the auxiliary battery to a Lithium, set the switch to IGNITION or STORED ( towards the LED ).

This will protect the lithium battery from being over discharged and having it turn off, and will still give you the SHEARED modes advantages but will allow the Lithium battery to keep your cranking battery fully charged at all times and should extend the cranking battery's lifespan by quite a few years.

Seems to me the D3 has the smarter alternator…. [emoji41]

At present my solar panel keeps the cranking battery fully charged - but I do like the idea of an AUX battery that has 105Ah of usable capacity that can be used independently to the cranking battery.

So yes - Ignition mode sounds ideal.

But stored mode will drop off the accessories,fridge,etc?

If so i suppose they can be wired and fused,which mine is anyway, directly to the battery with a low voltage cut out device, such as Tims AGM 25 i think it is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scarry

But stored mode will drop off the accessories,fridge,etc?

If so i suppose they can be wired and fused,which mine is anyway, directly to the battery with a low voltage cut out device, such as Tims AGM 25 i think it is.

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Hi Paul, there is a bit of a trick to using the IGNITION mode with a Lithium battery.

Under normal use with two lead acid batteries, when the vehicles motor is turned off, the voltage of the two batteries settles back to 12.7v or lower, and at this point, when set to IGNITION mode, yes the Traxide isolator shuts down, turning off the ACCESSORIES output.

When the auxiliary battery is a Lithium battery, when the motor is turned off, the voltage only settles back the lithium batteries settled voltage which is 13.2v

So the isolator does not turn off and you still have the ACCESSORIES output powering your fridge and what ever.

Depending on the load on the accessories output and the size of the lithium battery, the Traxide isolator could easily stay on for a couple of weeks.

NOTE, you can still use the Traxide isolate in SHARED Mode and the isolator will probably operate for up to three weeks before shutting down, but as noted earlier, this could cause the lithium battery's BMS to shutdown. It should still reactivate once you start your motor.

Neither mode, you are still going to extend the operating lifespan of your cranking battery.

Just remember this is fine in a D3, or Puma or any of the original Defenders.

But it will not work in D4s and anything made after them.

I am trying to develop a Work-Around for newer vehicles, but this is some time away.

Positive news from the FB forum this week. I was getting despondent about nearing 300;

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2f49efe1d5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...39f54f4760.jpg

My roof lining needs urgent attention is next focus

Today, I replaced the cooling hose manifold.

I got the part from All Four x 4 Spares, which comes with the 3 o-rings. The metal clips on the EGR went back on without issues.

I did notice a nick in the o-ring on the throttle body outlets. It doesn't seem to be causing a drama, but I'll add it to the things-to-fix list.

Cheers,

Salty

Picture of the leaky part.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3b870d9d92.jpg