Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by BradC

The stethoscope seems to think it's the A/C compressor pulley

The new pulley arrived this arvo. It's third party, so we'll see how long it lasts I suppose. Was advertised as a genuine Delco, but frankly I'm in no mood to argue the toss. I'll replace this one and replace the bearing in the old one for later.

For future Brad. The bearing is a BD355222DK. That's BD355222 ID-35 *OD-52 * D-22mm

Apparently a fairly standard A/C compressor clutch bearing. It is fixed into the pulley with 6 small peens on the inner, so I assume it'll press/punch out fairly easily and could be held in place with either more peening or a bit of Loctite bearing retainer.

Some D3 love

• 50A anderson via an ignition controlled 100A solenoid.
• Redarc tow pro elite
• 12pin flat & loom
• hard wiring the module to prevent CANBUS indicator flash on LED trailer indicators

Just finishing off the rear end wiring now. Is it beer o'clock yet?

Went to the wreckers and got a oil temp sender and HPFP off a 2016 territory with only 116K on the clock for $95 , temp is out of spec so i'll fit this and if needed order a new genuine replacement later.

Installed the XRS370 today with the head unit under the drivers seat using some aluminium angle and a 3d printed adaptor that fits into where I used to put my keys:

IMG_0983.jpg IMG_0985.jpg IMG_0986.jpg

So far, so good.

Repost without all the html and emoji's removed. Had the D4 out on Stockton Beach with my son last weekend. Probably the softest I’ve ever experienced there. Got stuck momentarily going up a steep hill.
Dropped down to about 14 psi and all was fine — no digging, just the usual amazing self-recovering ability of the Disco. Still impresses!

Stockton.jpg Stockton 2.jpg

modified the linear design pulse buster module as I have hard wired it into the D3.
With it hard wired in the D3 thinks a trailer is permanently attached and disables the rear park sensors and flashes the trailer indicator on the dash with the indicators.

A 6A DPDT switch solves the problem.

Modification allows for BYPASS - OFF - ON

Bypass means just that, the module is cut out of the cct and trailers with incandescent globes work normally
ON puts it into pulse bust mode for trailers with LED indicators.

OFF simply cuts the input indicators to the module.

IMG_0272.jpgIMG_0273.jpg

Originally Posted by l00kin4

Repost without all the html and emoji's removed. Had the D4 out on Stockton Beach with my son last weekend. Probably the softest I’ve ever experienced there. Got stuck momentarily going up a steep hill.
Dropped down to about 14 psi and all was fine — no digging, just the usual amazing self-recovering ability of the Disco. Still impresses!

Stockton.jpg Stockton 2.jpg

With any sand now I just go straight to 14/15 and it just floats on 18” wheels. Takes all the stress out of it

Originally Posted by BradC

The whine is starting to really get to me and I'm worried it'll lock up and result in a flat bed ride (A Disco in its natural habitat). The stethoscope seems to think it's the A/C compressor pulley. I hope it is, because at $250 delivered it's an expensive gamble.

Not an easy space to work in. The compressor shaft "identifies" as a 7mm hex, so I bought a good quality 6 point 7mm socket. Applied a strap wrench to the pulley, the socket to the shaft and "quite a bit of force". This successfully rounded the end of the shaft. Back to the drawing board.

One of the bits of advice on the D3UK forum was to hold the shaft and give the drive plate a quick "blap" with an air-hammer. So I though I'd give that a go. This time I used my trusty Metrinch 7mm socket on what was left of the shaft. That successfully tore a hole in the drive plate and destroyed it. After a lot of soul searching I decided the way forwards was to pull off what was left of the drive plate, leaving a chunk of threaded alloy boss screwed on the shaft.

I tried numerous gentle methods to get it loose to no avail all while holding the shaft with the metrinch 7mm socket (probably should have used that to start with). At this point I was in a position where I still had the pulley on, so worst case I could belt it back up and run with no A/C. I wasn't game to get near it with the gas axe, and feeling I had little to lose I gave it a quick "blap" with the air hammer and it spun off.

Getting the pulley off was another challenge entirely. The bearing was firmly stuck on the compressor nose and I ended up bending the pulley getting it off. Won't be refurbing that one.

Clean and grease the nose and threads and the new pulley slipped straight on. The circlip did a runner and it took me half an hour to find it hiding in the pivot for the passenger side LCA. I then knocked my 32mm socket down the air intake hole which I had forgotten to stuff a rag in. Turns out the 32mm socket will only come out one way and the magnet didn't want to pick it up that way, so about 45 minutes with a borescope, long hook and gooseneck magnet I got it back out. I also fished out the circlip that I'd knocked down there while I was figuring out how to retrieve the socket.

Of course being cleaned and greased the drive plate screwed straight back on and in half an hour I'd finished re-assembly and the oil change and was out for a test drive.

The whine persists. The bearing wasn't as grumbly as the one on the alternator, but I'm not unhappy to have replaced it. I did go over every other bearing while I was in there and I'm thinking it's the water pump. It doesn't grumble as its rotated but there is very minor play in the shaft that I'm pretty sure shouldn't be there. That's on the list when I do the timing belt, so I'll just put up with it until then.

At least it got an oil & filter change. That was overdue. Oh, and new tailgate struts. The ones I had made locally were 10mm too short, which translates into a lot of height. Got sick of bumping my head so ordered some new ones from the UK.