That's the lowers done, will do the uppers when I swap the arms over.![]()
I went out for a beer and steak with a mate tonight. He was "Mr Getter Outter" in Perth. Made half a mortgage removing snapped studs for one of the Landrover franchises in Perth and always said "Don't buy one of those pieces of crap" (most were TD5s but the TDV6 is worse). I bought the D3 in 2017 and he just shook his head. He sold his 100 series and went to an Isuzu MUX via a Mazda ute and Prado.
A few years ago he got knocked off his bike and run over. After a knee replacement he's still not great. He got into the car and said "This is the only car I've been able to get in with enough room for my knee. When he got out he commented on how much he loved the ride.
I know from a maintenance perspective it's not great, but that's mainly because the people we (and the previous owners) trusted to maintain it were "not ideal".
I both love and hate my D3, but the longer I own it the more it tilts away from "hate". It helps I enjoy working on it I suppose. I have no intention of selling it. I'll drive it until I can't keep it on the road.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
That's the lowers done, will do the uppers when I swap the arms over.![]()
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Clunk and Brakes
All research on clunking that is not LCA related seems to be sway bar related (noticeable in rolling or uneven ground) so I opted to change them as cheapest and clunk appears to be gone.
I think the reason is obvious though and probably common to most. I have a slight oil leak that accumulates on the bottom of the bellhousing and drips onto the sway bar. Just enough I wipe it off each oil service and barely enough to dirty the bash plate. I think it’s the vac pump from above.
The oil in time turns the sway bar bush jelly like and they become soft. It was worse on the passenger side. I had replaced them already several years ago. I could simulate the clunk by prising on the sway bar with the wheel off. Pic is new one the old ones had swollen out the ends a noticeable amount.
You can do the upper nut with a big offset 18mm ring spanner. Enough to do it up again pretty tight.
IMG_6972.jpg
After 160,000km the brake light came on so new Akebono pads were ordered.
On disassembly the discs were in spec so got machined. Barely a lip.
The pads except for one still had heaps of life. The rear caliper that the sensor sits on had a seized slide so had worn down that pad to the sensor limit. Pictures show the total thickness of entire plate and pad after 160k kms. The 8mm one set the sensor off.
IMG_6971.jpg
IMG_6969.jpg
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
It was a clunk associated with cornering and uneven wheel articulation like backing off a curb. Slow speed stuff. Driving around the neighbourhood clunk clunk every corner. You could say that is power on / off.
I did a sandy track with offset whoops and it clunked very hard.
This is the time the sway bar is being asked to do its job.
Nothing when braking or taking a speed bump directly on.
For $20 or so a set a no brainer to change.
Have now done a decent drive and absolute silence again.
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