Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

That's the lowers done, will do the uppers when I swap the arms over.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Run slightly more pressure 2-4psi and it’ll improve.

Have been running 4psi more and I can certainly notice a slight decrease in noise, however as the D3 does travel huge kms I'll keep a listening ear to how they go after a few thousand kms.

Clunk and Brakes

All research on clunking that is not LCA related seems to be sway bar related (noticeable in rolling or uneven ground) so I opted to change them as cheapest and clunk appears to be gone.

I think the reason is obvious though and probably common to most. I have a slight oil leak that accumulates on the bottom of the bellhousing and drips onto the sway bar. Just enough I wipe it off each oil service and barely enough to dirty the bash plate. I think it’s the vac pump from above.

The oil in time turns the sway bar bush jelly like and they become soft. It was worse on the passenger side. I had replaced them already several years ago. I could simulate the clunk by prising on the sway bar with the wheel off. Pic is new one the old ones had swollen out the ends a noticeable amount.

You can do the upper nut with a big offset 18mm ring spanner. Enough to do it up again pretty tight.

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After 160,000km the brake light came on so new Akebono pads were ordered.

On disassembly the discs were in spec so got machined. Barely a lip.

The pads except for one still had heaps of life. The rear caliper that the sensor sits on had a seized slide so had worn down that pad to the sensor limit. Pictures show the total thickness of entire plate and pad after 160k kms. The 8mm one set the sensor off.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Clunk and Brakes

All research on clunking that is not LCA related seems to be sway bar related (noticeable in rolling or uneven ground) so I opted to change them as cheapest and clunk appears to be gone.

Which clunk is this - the 'driving over bumps' clunk, or the 'power on/off' clunk?

Originally Posted by veebs

Which clunk is this - the 'driving over bumps' clunk, or the 'power on/off' clunk?

It was a clunk associated with cornering and uneven wheel articulation like backing off a curb. Slow speed stuff. Driving around the neighbourhood clunk clunk every corner. You could say that is power on / off.

I did a sandy track with offset whoops and it clunked very hard.

This is the time the sway bar is being asked to do its job.

Nothing when braking or taking a speed bump directly on.

For $20 or so a set a no brainer to change.

Have now done a decent drive and absolute silence again.

Yesterday I almost panicked and rushed out to buy some CT18 truck wash, as on Saturday I drove a tree covered dirt track that was much wetter and muddier than I thought it'd be, even though the creeks weren't running over the fords. Anyway the car was covered in grit, the sand didn't rinse off as the dust usually does, so I sprayed and soaked it with a soapy water mix from a pressurised spray bottle. The sand and grit then rinsed off, but left a streaky film that had to be brushed off, talked to my retired truck driver neighbour later and he said even CT18 wouldn't have removed that without brushing.

Yesterday I repaired the D4's spare wheel winch after it stopped raising when close to the top then stopped again part-way down. I ground off the rivets, emptied all the dust, removed the spring steel clip from the shaft, welded the disc with the off-centre cam to the shaft, tapped 6mm threads where the rivets had been, greased, reassembled, cut off and ground flush the new M6 bolts then refitted the winch. I don't know if the shaft was designed to slip in the disc under excessive load or if a spline had stripped, but it can't slip again.

Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

Yesterday I almost panicked and rushed out to buy some CT18 truck wash, as on Saturday I drove a tree covered dirt track that was much wetter and muddier than I thought it'd be, even though the creeks weren't running over the fords. Anyway the car was covered in grit, the sand didn't rinse off as the dust usually does, so I sprayed and soaked it with a soapy water mix from a pressurised spray bottle. The sand and grit then rinsed off, but left a streaky film that had to be brushed off, talked to my retired truck driver neighbour later and he said even CT18 wouldn't have removed that without brushing.

What CT18 is in a league of its own is removing the red film that sits over everything after outback adventures. Especially in engine bay and frame / suspension hard to reach areas no brush or sponge can access.

The CT18 removes the red film but yes first as with any wash you want to pre rinse any mud or grit off then apply CT18 in a pump bottle about 10:1 to hard to reach areas. Let it sit then hose off. For the engine bay I mist the CT18 coating and mist the hose off avoiding battery box area.