Saw this in my latest LRO November mag, seems to be a permanent fix.Discovery 3 & 4 Tailgate Latch Repair Kit
I think the theory is that if you can get extra voltage/ current to the motor you can just maybe get it to work.
The theory makes sense if the motor is on it's way out but not yet dead, a fully charged battery is probably the best bet and then immediately add a manual release.
Saw this in my latest LRO November mag, seems to be a permanent fix.Discovery 3 & 4 Tailgate Latch Repair Kit
2005 D3 TDV6 Present
1999 D2 TD5 Gone
Note that the fix is for a broken cable only. If the latch is not fully opening for whatever reason then the upper tailgate will still not open. The optimal fix is to attach a cable to the latch itself. There's a guide here somewhere.
But really, these rarely fail without warning. As soon as the tailgate opening starts becoming a bit tricky, immediately replace the mechanism; it's not too expensive, about $120 or so from memory.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
In all honesty dunno. I noted most people having issues had units around 10 years old - but that would all depend on the frequency of their back-door usage (there’s pun in there somewhere I’m sure).
I figured I’d got ten years out of mine and I felt that was a good innings so changed it out. Figured if I do it every five ish going forward. And yep, the argument of this not being tenable across everything that can go wrong applies. This however is a pain in the backside issue so I felt it was worth it, unlike the other doors.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Replaced mine with genuine assemby from Rimmers. This was about 18months ago so the car would have been about 8 years old. The telltale i found is when using the remote theres no solid "clunk" as the latch releases. The issue is the worm drive in the solenoid wears and cannot drive the actuator far enough against the spring to open the latch. Actuator is not serviceable.
LR part no and link Genuine Land Rover Actuator - Lock - Rear Door - Upper - FUG500010
I went with a Britpart. May live to regret it but so far so good.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
So not yet having got my head around all the bits and pieces yet, is the above and the Genuine Land Rover Actuator - Lock - Rear Door - Upper - FUG500010 one and the same, and in the order of $120 (in AU or sourced ex UK)?
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
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