Go for a drive to mix it around if you can, give it 15 min to cool and then slowly and carefully remove the cap.
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Go for a drive to mix it around if you can, give it 15 min to cool and then slowly and carefully remove the cap.
Thanks to all for help as this chore is now done. Here’s the how to;
Not that hard as you suggested just had to get my head around the pipe work and water flow.
Drove around with the flush product in the coolant for 30 minutes. Nice with heater on on a summers day.
Split the lower small hose as Tombie suggested but at the join to the hard pipe (yellow circle). Super super easy to access and pull apart.
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Also removed the drivers side front cover to reveal the fuel cooler quick connect here (green circle). They disconnect real easy. Drained from here also but only a small amount came out compared to the other.
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I used a bit of compressed air to push through final drops getting at least another 500ml out but on refilling with demin I reckon I was lucky to get 8.5 litres in of the specced 9.4litres.
(The drained coolant showed quite a bit of discolouration and sediment when pouring it into a storage container from the bucket.)
Changed plastic plug on crossover pipe to brass.
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Followed instructions to fill & bleed.
Drove around for another 15 minutes and drained again.
‘Almost’ clear water came out.
Repeat with new coolant premix Nulon OAT.
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Pretty easy other than being a slow process.
Only problem now is I have a low coolant warning so maybe my coolant bottle float switch has died in the process. Maybe needs a few restarts.
This is why I read most indy’s include a new coolant bottle in the process. I did that but used a cheap copy and had coolant level errors lol. Swapped my old level sensor for the new one and all was good with the new bottle and old sensor.
I didn’t think you could get the sensor out of the unit or may just not sold separately?Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Oh well, it’s well overdue for a new coolant bottle which can be next project now I have a bit of training.
In other news - there is excellent access up to the alternator bolts through the coolant pipes if you have a pit to work in. Still would have to remove it from top.
Also have a bit of oil seeping down around the drivers side back of the engine. Can see it dripping from the EGR shroud and shows up on the bell housing above the sway bar. A tiny amount in reality but something. I’m yet to see drops garage floor. The fuel cooler and pipe work has copped a bit of it as well.
Normal gunk from the engine breather or a sign of a new problem??
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Absolutely. Just slides out the bottom. IIRC it’s external to the bottle and the float works through the plastic to trigger (so you can remove the sensor without draining the bottle).Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Yeah mine died after a change too. There was a post about using cheap caps on here to. A member changed the tank and the new call didn't hold pressure and caused the boiling point to lower.
Now you tell me - ha haQuote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Will just have to put up with warning for a little while till new (genuine) expansion tank arrives.
I’ve just ordered a new cap for mine given it’s ten years old.
Genuine this time!
I just put the genuine cap off my old tank on my new aftermarket tank. I've never had a problem. He's problem may be one in a million. Im not sure. He dodged a bullet. He was thinking head gasket and it was pointing that way for him
Yeah mine’s been fine too. I just did an order from the UK to replace much of my window washer system and added that to my order, mostly as insurance, not because of an issue. After all, they don’t last forever.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber