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Thread: 2.7 TDV6 locking crank to remove nose bolt for oil pump replacement

  1. #1
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    Question 2.7 TDV6 locking crank to remove nose bolt for oil pump replacement

    I'm looking to replace my oil pump on our 2.7 TDV6 Lion motor. Have read the guide at https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/alb...ensioner~0.pdf but confused about locking the crank in order to undo the nose bolt holding the crank timing belt cog in place.


    In the guide a home made tool is used to hold the crankshaft while undoing the nose bolt:





    Is this required or is the flywheel locking tool, supplied in the kit, that is fitted through the starter motor hole, sufficient for this purpose?





    I'm not so much concerned about the timing positions but rather the strength that the flywheel locking pins are strong enough to hold the crank in position while the nose bolt is undone - i.e. that it's not going to result in ring gear on the torque converter being damaged or a snapped locking pin inside the bell housing?

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    From personal experience I can vouch that the crankshaft locking pin is indeed strong enough.
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  3. #3
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    Waste of time doing the pump on your car.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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    Renowned UK specialist always use the flywheel locking pin and don’t bother with an crank lock
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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    The force on the bolts though that pulley locking device would be many times that on the flywheel locking pin due to the relative distances the locking pin is from the centre of the crankshaft and it doesn't hold the shaft itself and therefore could not possibly be used when tightening the (new) bolt. IMO its a piece of rubbish!
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    I'm looking to replace my oil pump on our 2.7 TDV6 Lion motor.
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Waste of time doing the pump on your car.
    I am with Loanrangie - why you changing the oil pump - unless you have a issue with it there is no reason to do it.

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    The recommended locking tool is Special tool 303-1123, which engages with the ring gear
    303-1123 - Google Search

    However, Ive only ever used the timing pin tool which didnt shear off with 100Nm plus 90 deg on the new pully retaing bolt

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grappler View Post
    The recommended locking tool is Special tool 303-1123, which engages with the ring gear
    303-1123 - Google Search

    However, Ive only ever used the timing pin tool which didnt shear off with 100Nm plus 90 deg on the new pully retaing bolt
    Yeah, now we are talking and someone understands what I'm on about! I didn't think that timing pin would be the factory solution. But very glad to hear a few reports that it's holding up just fine to the extra duties as the proper tools look to be GBP 100 + in price before considering international freight! Yuck.


    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    I am with Loanrangie - why you changing the oil pump - unless you have a issue with it there is no reason to do it.


    I didn't really want to get into and off topic discussion about it in this thread, but, I've been gearing up to do the timing belt and a few additional maintenance items shortly (wanted to have everything sorted and ready to minimise the vehicles time off the road). I'm also considering doing the oil pump, as although I should have the later version with the strengthened timing belt tension mount, our engine is a bit noisey at idle. Have checked the fuel injectors and they seem fine so it's been suggested it may be a lazy oil pump. Apparently JC has previously had success replacing another TDV6 one that was similar. So it's a bit of a gamble whether it's worth the extra $200.00 or so in parts plus time.

  9. #9
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    So it's a bit of a gamble whether it's worth the extra $200.00 or so in parts plus time.
    Don't gamble. Put a pressure gauge on it and check it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Don't gamble. Put a pressure gauge on it and check it out.
    Yes, you are right, but there doesn't seem to be much guidance on what the correct specs should be. I think it's time for a new thread to discuss this separately so that it's finable as a resource - 2.7 TDV6 oil pressure - testing and specs .

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