From personal experience I can vouch that the crankshaft locking pin is indeed strong enough.
I'm looking to replace my oil pump on our 2.7 TDV6 Lion motor. Have read the guide at https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/alb...ensioner~0.pdf but confused about locking the crank in order to undo the nose bolt holding the crank timing belt cog in place.
In the guide a home made tool is used to hold the crankshaft while undoing the nose bolt:
Is this required or is the flywheel locking tool, supplied in the kit, that is fitted through the starter motor hole, sufficient for this purpose?
I'm not so much concerned about the timing positions but rather the strength that the flywheel locking pins are strong enough to hold the crank in position while the nose bolt is undone - i.e. that it's not going to result in ring gear on the torque converter being damaged or a snapped locking pin inside the bell housing?
From personal experience I can vouch that the crankshaft locking pin is indeed strong enough.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Waste of time doing the pump on your car.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Renowned UK specialist always use the flywheel locking pin and don’t bother with an crank lock
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
The force on the bolts though that pulley locking device would be many times that on the flywheel locking pin due to the relative distances the locking pin is from the centre of the crankshaft and it doesn't hold the shaft itself and therefore could not possibly be used when tightening the (new) bolt. IMO its a piece of rubbish!
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
The recommended locking tool is Special tool 303-1123, which engages with the ring gear
303-1123 - Google Search
However, Ive only ever used the timing pin tool which didnt shear off with 100Nm plus 90 deg on the new pully retaing bolt
Yeah, now we are talking and someone understands what I'm on about! I didn't think that timing pin would be the factory solution. But very glad to hear a few reports that it's holding up just fine to the extra duties as the proper tools look to be GBP 100 + in price before considering international freight! Yuck.
I didn't really want to get into and off topic discussion about it in this thread, but, I've been gearing up to do the timing belt and a few additional maintenance items shortly (wanted to have everything sorted and ready to minimise the vehicles time off the road). I'm also considering doing the oil pump, as although I should have the later version with the strengthened timing belt tension mount, our engine is a bit noisey at idle. Have checked the fuel injectors and they seem fine so it's been suggested it may be a lazy oil pump. Apparently JC has previously had success replacing another TDV6 one that was similar. So it's a bit of a gamble whether it's worth the extra $200.00 or so in parts plus time.
Yes, you are right, but there doesn't seem to be much guidance on what the correct specs should be. I think it's time for a new thread to discuss this separately so that it's finable as a resource - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...ml#post2964094 .
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